The freeze plugs behind my 5.7L motor mounts need replacing. I'm having to do this with the van (1988 G30 w/230K) parked outside. So far I have the long bolts removed and the trans mount nut off. Ready to raise the motor so I can access the bolts to the block. It'* awkward as Heck with limited space to set wrenches and turn them while laying down. I could use any tips to make this job easier for this old man. I have a Haynes manual but it'* short on details. BTW will be using Dorman'* rubber freeze plugs. Bought three in case I decide to renew the plug behind the starter since it appeared to seep some 7-10 years ago.
Thanks!
Dirtywerk
Longview, Tx.

Ouch. Sorry to hear you're stuck doing that. I can't think of an easier way without making something else more difficult or worse like:

- Go ahead and just pull the engine, no big deal, then the freeze plugs will be easy to get to!
- Epoxy?
- There'* always the option of inventing a time machine and going back and choosing a "not van". Someone'* gotta do it.

Maybe one of the others here will have something for you . . . or at the very least maybe my odd attempt at levity will make it easier:

- "Just pull the engine CathedralCub says. No big deal CathedralCub says."
- "Epoxy? Yup, would be lovely to goop that up, still have a leak, and have the engine block glued to the crossmember. That CathedralCub is quite the rascal."
- "Time machine? Dammit Jim it'* a van, not a Delorean."

My main concern is holding the motor up using a jack resting on soft wet soil. I have a 1 1/2" x 16" square concrete block positioned where the jack will go but am leery of it settling/shifting from the weight of the motor. For now I'll reset the long thru bolt on the passenger side mount, set the jack so it'll hold up the motor while I remove the driver side rubber mount from the pedestal so it'll be out of the way to access the bolts into the block. That'll also give me more room to remove the failed plug and clean things up before installing the rubber expansion plug. I may need to remove the AIR pump on the passenger side to access the one rubber mount bolt in front.

Dirtywerk

Sounds like you're on the right track. While you're there you might want to verify that the oil cooler lines (if it has them) aren't leaking at the crimp connections. I can't think of a better time to do those.

It has the hard fluid lines from the TH400 to the radiator. I'll take them out of the radiator before raising the motor any. May need to do the same with some of the Freon lines. The AC hasn't worked for the past 20 years so I may remove those and other related components while waiting for the ground to drain and temperatures to rise.

D-W

Good luck!

I wised up and called around for prices. Found a place that would do it the next day for $320 so took it there. I had forgotten to drain the lower radiator hose when it was warm out so was frozen solid that morning when I began refiling the empty system with water. Propped a hairdryer up beneath it, draped a towel over the hose then did something else for two hours. Came back to find it thawed yet the water level inside the radiator was the same. Ran the engine for awhile until the temp lite came on then a few minutes more before turning it off. Had a smoke waiting for the engine heat to melt the ice inside. Did that three times and the radiator level was still the same. Figured the T-stat was open by then so pulled off the upper hose and managed to pour in a gallon before it closed. Ran it again until hot and had steam blowing out of the leaking freeze plugs. Radiator'* level had dropped some so added water then ran the motor again until it blew steam. While shut off the water level plummeted so added nearly 4 more gallons. Looked underneath to see how much was running out and only saw some drips behind the starter. Jumped in the van and drove the 3 miles to the shop without overheating (was 40 by then). Only saw the dripping once there and found the radiator was still full of water. I guess the steam boiled off some crud that got wedged into the gaps causing the leaks and sealed them off. Got lucky since the shop only had to replace the LH plug behind the m-mount and one behind the starter. They knocked in OEM steel plugs instead ($1.39 ea.) so got to return the 3 rubber Dormans that cost me $15. Their final job cost was $245.50 which was very reasonable to me. Probably should've call them in the first place.

Thanks for letting us know how it came out!