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-   -   propper way to torque head bolts (https://www.gmforum.com/chevrolet-179/propper-way-torque-head-bolts-312341/)

wes104 02-03-2019 04:13 AM

propper way to torque head bolts
 
im about to reinstall the head on a 96 chevy corsica with a 2.2l after having to replace a bent valve and was wondering whats the proper way to torque the head bolts?ive got new head bolts and been researching and i just want to make sure i got all the info so i dont screw something up

Tech II 02-03-2019 07:55 AM

Yes, you should use the proper procedure for that year engine......it varies from year to year, and engine to engine......chances are these are TTY bolts, meaning, they will be torqued to a spec in a "certain order", AND THEN, be turned an additional amount of degrees.....I don't have those specs, I am sure someone will chime in....

Should use a thread chaser in the block and then blow them out, making sure nothing gets into the cylinder or passages(oil/coolant)....

Then the new bolts should be prepared.......As Mike stated, some bolts need sealer on them, some don't.....the ones that don't use sealer, sometimes have oil put on the threads, lay the bolts down on a rag, and let them drip off, and then wipe any excess off.....

So it is essential that proper procedures are use.....you can stop by a local GM dealer and they will print this out for you.......or maybe you might want to sign up with AllData, or something like Autozone, which has some access to procedures, and it's free....

Mike 02-03-2019 09:55 AM

And if the bolt holes are NOT hollow or pass through, you will need to suck out ALL the oil out of the holes. Otherwise you will hydro-lock the bolt and cause false torque readings.

carfixer007 02-03-2019 12:05 PM

Tighten from the inner to the outer. Tighten to 30 lbs then to 45 pounds then tighten additional 90 degrees (2 flats of the bolts). You'll be fine with that.

dpieroni3 02-03-2019 12:10 PM

Clean out bolt holes in the block.Do not oil or put sealer on bolts this will effect the torque value
tighten the long bolts to 46lbft and the short bolts to 43lbft starting in the center and working to the
ends in a circular pattern.Go over the bolts again to make sure their at the proper toque setting(you
might find the center ones loose). Then tighten all the bolts an additional 90 degrees

wes104 02-03-2019 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by Mike (Post 1630605)
And if the bolt holes are NOT hollow or pass through, you will need to suck out ALL the oil out of the holes. Otherwise you will hydro-lock the bolt and cause false torque readings.


Originally Posted by carfixer007 (Post 1630615)
Tighten from the inner to the outer. Tighten to 30 lbs then to 45 pounds then tighten additional 90 degrees (2 flats of the bolts). You'll be fine with that.


Originally Posted by dpieroni3 (Post 1630616)
Clean out bolt holes in the block.Do not oil or put sealer on bolts this will effect the torque value
tighten the long bolts to 46lbft and the short bolts to 43lbft starting in the center and working to the
ends in a circular pattern.Go over the bolts again to make sure their at the proper toque setting(you
might find the center ones loose). Then tighten all the bolts an additional 90 degrees


Originally Posted by Tech II (Post 1630600)
Yes, you should use the proper procedure for that year engine......it varies from year to year, and engine to engine......chances are these are TTY bolts, meaning, they will be torqued to a spec in a "certain order", AND THEN, be turned an additional amount of degrees.....I don't have those specs, I am sure someone will chime in....

Should use a thread chaser in the block and then blow them out, making sure nothing gets into the cylinder or passages(oil/coolant)....

Then the new bolts should be prepared.......As Mike stated, some bolts need sealer on them, some don't.....the ones that don't use sealer, sometimes have oil put on the threads, lay the bolts down on a rag, and let them drip off, and then wipe any excess off.....

So it is essential that proper procedures are use.....you can stop by a local GM dealer and they will print this out for you.......or maybe you might want to sign up with AllData, or something like Autozone, which has some access to procedures, and it's free....

ok so it proper way is to torque to 30 then to the recommended torque value or just hand tighten down and go straight to torque value

Mike 02-03-2019 01:39 PM

The only proper way is by the factory service manual. Every engine has a specific sequence and spec to do head bolts. For more reasons than you think.

And when someone just randomly throws out numbers and says you will be fine with that without quoting a source are just full of shit.

dpieroni3 02-03-2019 03:09 PM

I got the specs from OEM service information and if you were to look at the torque sequence it is as I stated.

Mike 02-03-2019 03:16 PM


Originally Posted by dpieroni3 (Post 1630626)
I got the specs from OEM service information and if you were to look at the torque sequence it is as I stated.

I think I speak for others, but it would be nice if you had actually said something to the effect that you got it from a reliable source. People like to have a warm and fuzzy feeling about certain things. I'm one of them. I won't put a D13 Volvo diesel engine back together unless I have torque specs at my disposal. Otherwise, I won't sleep at night.

dpieroni3 02-03-2019 03:28 PM

You also give alot of advice with out sources. If you need service info I've been in GM dealers for almost 40 years and still am. We service medium duty and down. I primarily do HD power train. I try to be helpful and not steer people in the wrong direction and not be offensive. Have a good day


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