'99 Malibu - Need a brake line diagram
#1
Junior Member
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'99 Malibu - Need a brake line diagram
Hello All,
I'm new to this site and hoping to get some help quickly. The rear brake lines on my 99 Malibu (3.1L) are rotted so I'm replacing them but, after crawling underneath, find the routing to be far from easy to follow.
I'm sure I could work it out but why not ask for help? If anyone has any idea where I could get this diagram, that'd be great. It'* up on jackstands now and I need to finish it this weekend. I hate the bus.
Thanks!
I'm new to this site and hoping to get some help quickly. The rear brake lines on my 99 Malibu (3.1L) are rotted so I'm replacing them but, after crawling underneath, find the routing to be far from easy to follow.
I'm sure I could work it out but why not ask for help? If anyone has any idea where I could get this diagram, that'd be great. It'* up on jackstands now and I need to finish it this weekend. I hate the bus.
Thanks!
#2
Retired
Normally, you just follow the original routing of the old brake lines. It doesn't have to be perfect. Just as long as the lines don't rub against anything.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#3
Senior Member
Like Mike says, they don't have to be EXACT, just pretty close so that they fit into the existing clips that hold them in place.....you can't buy replacement lines that are bent to specifically fit your vehicle....
Are you replacing the entire line from the front to the back? It'* not necessary, if there is only a short section that is bad....all you have to do is cut out a section, or just make a cut where there is good pipe, and that you have room to make an ISO, or "bubble" flare.......then you can replace the rest with one long piece bent to shape.......YOU MUST NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!
They usually rust bad towards the rear, and that is where the replacement is needed......I make a cut where there is good steel, and I have room to make the flare(remember to put the fitting on first before making the flare, or you will hate yourself later).......I then remove the old line, and use it as a template, to bend the new line( I put a 1.5" piece of pipe in a vice, and holding the old line next to the new line, I can pretty much duplicate the old line, by bending it around the pipe).....Then using couplings/unions for the specific flare, you join the lines together...
You can buy a roll of steel line or you can buy the steel line in various lengths(already flared....but you need to make a flare where the cut was made), that approximate the line you are replacing........just take a string, and run it along the curve of the old pipe, until you get to the end......then measure the string......this will give you an idea of the length to buy......
Are you replacing the entire line from the front to the back? It'* not necessary, if there is only a short section that is bad....all you have to do is cut out a section, or just make a cut where there is good pipe, and that you have room to make an ISO, or "bubble" flare.......then you can replace the rest with one long piece bent to shape.......YOU MUST NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS!
They usually rust bad towards the rear, and that is where the replacement is needed......I make a cut where there is good steel, and I have room to make the flare(remember to put the fitting on first before making the flare, or you will hate yourself later).......I then remove the old line, and use it as a template, to bend the new line( I put a 1.5" piece of pipe in a vice, and holding the old line next to the new line, I can pretty much duplicate the old line, by bending it around the pipe).....Then using couplings/unions for the specific flare, you join the lines together...
You can buy a roll of steel line or you can buy the steel line in various lengths(already flared....but you need to make a flare where the cut was made), that approximate the line you are replacing........just take a string, and run it along the curve of the old pipe, until you get to the end......then measure the string......this will give you an idea of the length to buy......
Last edited by Tech II; 04-10-2015 at 01:31 PM.
The following users liked this post:
WilliamE (04-10-2015)
#4
had similiar issue with the astro. Did just like everyone mentioned. No need to match bends exactly just relatively close and secure with existing straps. make sure to get proper fittings and flare tool. Not a hard fix besides being on jack stands. take your time and you should not need to use the bus.
#5
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Thread Starter
Thanks
Hey,
thanks for all your input and sorry for not responding sooner. This isn't the first brake line job I've done, although I do appreciate all the advice as a representation of the kind of folks on this site.
I am just always looking for any visual aids available. I was able to just replace a couple of sections, although I did buy all the line for the car in rolls. They all need replacing soon but I needed the car roadworthy asap.
Anyhow, thanks again.
Brian
thanks for all your input and sorry for not responding sooner. This isn't the first brake line job I've done, although I do appreciate all the advice as a representation of the kind of folks on this site.
I am just always looking for any visual aids available. I was able to just replace a couple of sections, although I did buy all the line for the car in rolls. They all need replacing soon but I needed the car roadworthy asap.
Anyhow, thanks again.
Brian
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