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My normally relable 2004 Classic failed to start today. It fired for a half second and then would not re-start...it cranked just great but did not fire.

I had to run to work in another car and haven't checked anything.

I realize that I need gas, spark and compression.

I thought that 1st I would put a pressure guage on the fuel rail and make sure that I have proper fuel pressure. With this type of engine I can't pull spark plug wires to check for spark.

So can I pull the entire top piece that has all four of the coils, lay it on it'* side with spark plugs in it...crank it and and observe that I have spark?

I have a compression checker and I can remove the plugs and crank it to verify that I have compression

Any ideas or cautions please advise.

Thanks

Spit

Can you verify that your fuel pump is priming first? Turn key on/NOT start and just hang your head out the door to listen for the 2 seconds of whine.

Start with the easy stuff, check for fuel pressure.

Has it done this before? Did it start up when you got home? Could be a crank shaft position sensor.

You can check for spark by unbolting the ignition coil assembly from the cam cover, put a plug in the boot, have it'* electrode laying on any engine ground surface and have someone crank the motor. You should use an aligator clipped wire to clip the ignition module mount surface to an engine ground, as it might be a case ground set up.

I just did a quic check .. and I have fuel pressure 50lbs or so.. I flipped the ignition module unit over but did not ground it and I did not seem to have any spark. I also removed all 4 plugs and I hooked up an compression checker...not sure how well I had it screwed in etc. but I did get at least 120 lbs. on the 2 cylinders that I did check

As far as the ignition check goes...it seemed like the plugs wanted to side out of the boots on the ignition unit. The plugs never seemed to snap in like they would with a normal spark plug wire.. Is this normal? or should they snap in? I pushed 'em down pretty good but they would creep back out. I can see where the bolts that hold the igniton unit in place would probably maintain good contact when it'* in place even with out some sort of a snap. This no-snap thew me off a little what do you think.

The plugs looked to be in good shape. a little worn..but not oil fouled etc So I am assuming that the rings valeve seals etc. part of compression is good? I have more experience with small engines (like lawn mowers snow throwers etc.)
I didn't think that the plugs were very wet with un-ignited gasoline..might there be something causing the fuel injectors not to open?

I will take a more thorough look at it this evening..so let me know If you have any ideas as to what and how I should check.

Would the crankshaft positon sensor cut out the power to the coil..or to the injectors or both?

Thanks

Spit

When the crank shaft position sensor fails you have no spark on any cylinder. It does not affect fuel delivery. With you having good fuel pressure, it is a possible candidate.

2kg4u...

Any insight on where the CPS is located on the 2.2L and how to test it?

Spit

Lower left side of the engine:

Problem Found Possibly fixed

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Found my problem...PASSLOCK anti theft system. My understanding is that if the car decides that you have tryed to start the car without the actual key, It shuts off the power to the injectors...no gas no go!

I would strongly suggest to anyone having no start issue..that you reset your PASSLOCK as follows: Turn the key to the ON position let the anti theft light flash it will for aprox. 10 minutes or so...and when the light stops flashing/shuts itself off, turn the ignition off and then try to start your car. Mine started like a champ.

They funny thing is that my Anti Theft light did flash on ramdomly a few times over the past 2-3 weeks. It normally only comes on for 5 seconds when starting and then shuts off. Seems like it happend shortly after a cold start, then driving and hitting a bump... the light came on and stayed on...if I shut the car off and re-started, the car re-started fine and the light went off and stayed off.

Now the question is...is it a worn key or a bad lock cylinder or any otherpart?

I did switch over to the spare key the one that I have never used. So I guess I will find out if it'* more than the key.

Just spoke to a Chevy Dealer who tells me $260-$270 for the parts...plus labor ro reprogram! Auto Zone has the same part for $159. I am seeing info on the web on bypassing the system all together by cutting a wire. Seems like it'* pretty expensive to fix if I continue to have problems.

Spit

Does your key look like this?

No, it'* a plain key. My 1996 Lumina had a key like the one in your photo. I guess they found a way to do it with normal key. (No resistor pellet on the key) Good new is that I reset it 3 days ago and haven't had any more trouble.

I have the key for my wife'* Dodge mini van on my key ring, and I did insert the wrong key into the Classic a few weeks ago and try to start it. That may have been about the time the Theft light started to flash. The mini van key will fit into the cylinder but it won' t turn. I wonder if having done that..put the theft system into some type of an alert status that lead to the problem I had Monday morning.
I was really lucku and I really can't complain how this has worked out. Of all the places to have the no start to happen..in my garage with another car to drive to work that day parked out front...A whole lot better that out on the road 50 miles from home not tools etc.
Spit