I need help locating a specific fuse/breaker please. I need to defeat the motors that attempt to fill the air ride suspension when it detects an issue. The right rear air motor is stuck on full blast after a sensor through a code. it will not turn off and drew so much load on the charging system it blew out the alternator. I can give the full story if needed but can anyone help me find someone that know where to locate the fuse or whatever can defeat that motor manually? Thanks in advance

What was the code?

Are you saying the compressor constantly runs and you want it to stop?

Thanks for replying. Yes, for right now, I just want the compressor to stop so I can make a better assessment and also be able to keep the car running long enough to move parking spaces and drive up onto a tow, etc.

I dont have a code reader. I just bought it last week and am just trying to catch up with how to best salvage a used car buy gone wrong.

here'* a paste from another post I made on another site for more info:


the goals are two-fold: temporarily defeat the motor so I can fix the suspension in whatever way it needs without blowing up another alternator. then replace the alternator. Right now it is totally down and cannot run longer than 30-45 seconds because of the motor draw.

I guess this dove-tails into a bigger question - I hear it is best to just repair whatever issue is going on with the right rear air suspension - then bother with a conversion kit?

The story is long, and I can post it, but the short story is I just bought it "as is" from a used car dealer who told me the right rear was out, which was obvious over bumps, but i did not think it would cause the sensors to throw a code (nothing happened during a long test drive, even over bumps), which caused the computer to turn the compressor motor on fulltime like that. But, it did, and now I just need to figure out the best way to proceed.

it seems simple that the electronic system draw is the main concern. If I get the alternator replaced it will just blow again due to the draw most likely.

I have the manual, and I did look at the rear fuse block under the seat by the battery, but didnt know it had the schematic on the inside covers or the manual. figured you needed a service manual or other to figure that out. Sorry, just flustered and trying to figure out the best way to go.

so ultimately:

1) all the info I can find myself, so RTFM.

2) dont mess with a conversion kit, just replace the failed right air bag?

seem logical?

Also, here'* more background on exactly what happened, in case it helps.


Was driving the car home 45 minutes from the dealer . It made it 35 minutes into the trip and started throwing a service traction control message on the DIC. right after that I got a battery saving mode message and then got a low battery voltage notice


I pulled over and the car cut off. Turned on the ignition and the starter just clicked. Saw the battery was down to 9 volt connected another car with jumper cables and it started back up at 12 volts then disconnected the cables and the battery pulled right back down immediately to 9 volts.

As soon as I turn the keys on I hear a motor running right over the rear wheel it is a constant low hum right over the rear wheel well and it will not turn off

The battery will not charge and the motor draws down immediately to 9 volts.

Also many other service warnings on the DIC

I know the alternator is out . And the only thing I can tell if that motor running is whats drawing down the battery so fast

If I can get that motor turned off long enough I think I can start it and have it run for at least more than 30 seconds

The plan is to get an airbag to shock conversion kit and then also replace the alternator and then work on all the other warnings once it will stay running charging and drives <-- that part is up in question right now.

Well, you can pull either the 30A ELC fuse or the ELC relay from the rear fuse block......

Sounds like the alternator is not charging, and also you may have a bad battery......

Did not do much work on Caddy'*....does this use air bags or air struts?

from what I can tell its air shocks. obviously I need to do better research. I appreciate the info.

Have you used a meter to check the alternator'* output?

Is the hum for sure from the compressor? . . . or is it from the fuel pump?

It could be that the dealer charged the battery up (maybe knowing that the alternator is bad) and sent you on your way. If the battery is in good shape you can get usually at least a half hour of driving out of it with no alternator (depending on what electrical stuff you're using).

I think we are discussing air shocks (as opposed to bags) in this application. Keep in mind that air shocks need some pressure in them no matter what. Otherwise the bladder destroys itself.

Thanks. Don't have a meter. Not even a basic set of tools anymore (roommate thing, long story).

Pretty sure it'* the compressor, as I never heard that at all during the test drive or even after I stopped for gas. It was only about 20 minutes after that when the service warnings began popping up like lights on a Christmas tree and I pulled over before the battery died, it happened on every key turn afterwards and would not stop, even after engine was running for more than 30 seconds on a jump still connected. The warnings came after I filled up with gas and I hit some very minor undulations on the highway.

Alternator? could have been out the whole time - but my test drive was at least 15 minutes with AC at full blast and everything else active. not a single message on the DIC. just a CEL (which I already knew about, its the common crank position sensor and other "known" codes that modell throws).

Yes -- I am fairly certain now it is air shocks. Dont know where bags came into mind other than the fact whenever I hear air suspension thats what I imagine.

plan is to pull the ELC fuse and see if the battery still draws down fast with everything else off, or if it levels out with the normal draw (I hope, I hope).

Then, replace both airshocks (easy and cheap), then put the ELC fuse back in to see how it reacts.

if nothing else major is wrong, replace the alternator (going to have that done by an ASE and will use a genuine Delco) -- and pray everything else behaves and is minor to correct.

I feel decent about it as long as there was no major short or other electrical thing that is new because it was rock solid and a joy to drive for the test drive and well over 30 minutes after cruising at 70+ with AC and stereo cranking.

would like to also add the battery itself is fine it holds a residual charge enough to crank after a bit, and before the draw starts again.

No meter? Somewhere in the instrumentation there should be a voltage gage or information......may have to scroll through DIC data...