Hit a curb with 2000 Park ave really hard!!
#1
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Hit a curb with 2000 Park ave really hard!!
I hit a curb in a parking lot really hard. I was driving along parallel to the curb and I could not see it. I turned right into it and the the tire blew out and I ended up high centered and hung up on the curb. I got it off the curb and put on a new tire. It was pulling really hard to the right. I turned the right tie rod out 4 full revolutions and it steered pretty good. Drove down the highway just fined but, it made a little grumbling noise and felt like it was wobbling untill about 20mph then it felt fine. After a couple hundred miles the cv boot started leaking. I am thinking it was operating outside its operating range.. Question how can I evaluate the parts to determine which is bent. I suspect the steering knuckle, lower A arm and the steering rack.
#2
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Best thing would be to get it on a rack for a thorough inspection. If the CV boot is leaking the CV may have rode up on the curb. Besides the parts you mentioned, pay especial attention to the axle including where it comes out of the transmission.
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#3
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Its a little late now to get it up on a rack. I just removed the axle to inspect it. The axle was only a few months old at the time of the accident and it appears to be ok, no play or slop, no stiffness or grittiness when I work the cv joints in all directions. It was not leaking and there was no indication of excessive play where it snaps into the tranny.
I removed the lower ball joint and the sway bar so the control arm is free. It works through its normal range of motion with no binding or resistance although there is a small amount of play on the rear bushing but I don't think it is affecting anything.
The engine cradle did hit the curb just below the steering rack mounting bolt. It bent it upward about an 1/8". I wonder if that is enough to merit replacement. Replacing the cradle looks like a ton of work. I would not want to do that unless I was absolutely sure it would solve the problem.
I removed the lower ball joint and the sway bar so the control arm is free. It works through its normal range of motion with no binding or resistance although there is a small amount of play on the rear bushing but I don't think it is affecting anything.
The engine cradle did hit the curb just below the steering rack mounting bolt. It bent it upward about an 1/8". I wonder if that is enough to merit replacement. Replacing the cradle looks like a ton of work. I would not want to do that unless I was absolutely sure it would solve the problem.
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The wheel bearing had a little bit of a 'notch' in it. When you rotate it by hand it would turn pretty good but there was one spot where it had a little notch like a click as it passed that one point. I though that may have been causing the wobbly feel when driving. Replaced the bearing and it seemed to make some of the wobble go away but, there was still something not right.
The rack had been leaking a little bit over the last couple years and since the accident it has not felt smooth, so I replaced it. That seemed to make the biggest difference. Drove it for a couple hundred miles and thought it was fixed.
Then it started squeeling. Sounds kinda like the indicator that tells you that the brakes are worn out. The brakes however are fine, starting to think the noise is coming from the bearing. Maybe I just got a bad bearing???? Could the steering knuckle be bent, causing everything involved to be out of alignment???
The rack had been leaking a little bit over the last couple years and since the accident it has not felt smooth, so I replaced it. That seemed to make the biggest difference. Drove it for a couple hundred miles and thought it was fixed.
Then it started squeeling. Sounds kinda like the indicator that tells you that the brakes are worn out. The brakes however are fine, starting to think the noise is coming from the bearing. Maybe I just got a bad bearing???? Could the steering knuckle be bent, causing everything involved to be out of alignment???
#6
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Yes, I have considered that. I told the tire store what happened and asked them to check the rim closely before they mounted a new tire. Then when I got it back I bolted it on the car and checked it with a dial indicator- about .005" run out. When the problem persisted I moved the questionable wheel to the back and put the back wheel on the font.
#7
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Sooo.. I replaced the rack and pinion and it started driving pretty good. Still a little 'different' hard to describe but, just didn't feel 'right'. So I got a used steering knuckle from the wrecking yard a installed it. Sure enough I had to adjust the tie rod in about 3 full turns to get it in adjustment. Driving pretty good now. I went ahead and replaced the lower control arm while I had it apart since the bushing was worn out anyway.
My repair was pretty hit and miss, just kept replacing parts until I solved the problem. At this point it'* hard to tell which parts solved the problem and which had little or no affect. The good news is, most of the parts for these cars are pretty reasonable and I was not paying for labor.
My repair was pretty hit and miss, just kept replacing parts until I solved the problem. At this point it'* hard to tell which parts solved the problem and which had little or no affect. The good news is, most of the parts for these cars are pretty reasonable and I was not paying for labor.
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billha
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06-15-2011 11:37 PM