How do you keep your fog lights on when operating high beams? I have seen tons of write ups but none for a 2000 Buick Regal LSE or any Buicks for that matter. I have 3000k H.I.D. fogs. *Disclaimer - Many states if not all allow 4 driving lights so it would not be illegal to use on public roads, why would you drive with your highs on twords other drivers anyway? I simply want more light and cannot have my fogs pointlessly turn off when i want more light, especially the penetrating light my fogs have vs all the reflection I get from my HIR high beams.

your bcm enables the circuit with a ground. if you cut the orange wire from the switch to the bcm and ground it to the chassis, the fog light switch should work at any time

Thanks this makes sense, where is the easiest place to access the orange wire??? I was thinking of additional an additional switch that takes signals from the fog relay fuse in fuse box (putting wires in relay pinholes then plugging relay in) but this seems easier.

Hi FireBird,
Behind the fog relay switch under the instrument panel there is two orange wires, following my wire schematic i did exactly what you said and cut the orange wire going from the switch to the bcm and grounded the relay side. This did nothing but operate the fogs the same exact way, to double check i grounded the BCM end as well and the fog \* did not operate at all. To even double check that check i tried the other orange wire in the other wire cluster as there are two clusters going to fog relay switch. I followed all the directions given and went beyond. Maybe i did something wrong but this is my first experience getting help on the GM forum and im pretty ticked off taking advice that did not work assuming it was correct or that i'm doing everything right. hopefully we can resolve this becuase now all i have is a bunch of cut wires that i had to re-connect and a lot of time spend so far.

Thanks FireBird for your help.

ive never had your car or worked on it, if you are going to get mad about it then thats your issue. going by the diagrams i can get you something that will work but I dont have to say anything. i do because you arent going to find anyone else who has electrical knowledge and is willing to look through the diagrams to find a solution. sometimes it takes a couple tries, thats just how it is.

you can find the input wire labeled a and make it feed 12v from wherever you want it to turn on from. like if you want to just have it be available anytime the key is on connect it to a fuse that is hot with just the key. and hook that orange wire back to ground. tape up the side that goes to the bcm

looks like if you wire the a input to the fog fuse it will be available anytime without the key, if you wire it to one of the others on this diagram after the main ign relay it will only be available with the key on

Hi FireBird,
Thank again. I am not angry at you but did vent a bit which you don't need to hear. I am angry at GM for making things confusing and non-sensicle. I mean why in the world with their infinite wisdom would they not put a wiring diagram of your own car that you purchased in your owners manual? Instead relying on aftermarket manuals like Haynes that can be more generic and make your wiring look like rocket science. I have ran into very similar frustrating scenarios like this on GM with doing high/low beam mods etc.

You are right unfortunately, not everything works on the first try and that'* just how it is. Unfortunatly I have a personality where if I cannot figure something out it insults my intelligence, of course I would not call myself an electrical engineer by a long shot.

P.*. one of the first things I tried was jumping a cable from fog lamp relay pin (in fuse block) to negative battery terminal, well when I did the fogs turned on with car off! What you say makes sense, the permanent ground to the fog must come from something that has a permanent ground only when the key is on before the fog lamp relay which is always hot.

So from what I understand the wire labled A is the wire that comes from the high beam switch (light green to pink) and activates the fog relay to remove ground from fogs. Take that pink wire labeled a on the diagram before it gets to the fog relay in fuse block and wire it to fuse that is only active(meaning it only provides ground) when the key is on. This means the pink wire I am looking for that feeds into lamp relay in fuse block is under my fuse block being fed into it. If I am incorrect in my conclusion please let me know.

the short story is no, you need 12v on the a input side from the key on fuse. and the ground will come from the fog light switch after you put the orange wire back to ground. then you will have fog lights when ever the key is on and the switch is hit.

the long story is you need 12v on one side and ground on the other to activate the relay. the ground is normally supplied by the bcm. normally thats the only control because the light inputs are also controlled/ fed to the bcm and it doesnt need a secondary input on the positive side like yours has.

Hi FireBird
OK I understand, my ground is the orange wire coming from fog switch to BCM under steering column/instrument panel like you originally explained.

My *additional* 12V feed needs to go into the existing headlight dimmer switch wire which feeds 12V to the fog lamp relay which is this light green wire(near fog switch) and pink wire(near underhood fuse box). My only question now is does it matter if I supply 12V feed to the light green part of the wire in my steering column/instrument panel or to the pink part of the wire in my underhood fusebox? Perhaps this is just a preference as to which end is easier to feed 12V whether it be from a fuse or by tapping a wire, it seems in your description you would be accesing the pink part of the wire which must be underneath/feeding the underhood fuse block. The location in which I must feed 12V to this light green/pink wire is the only thing I am uncertain of.

make sure you unhook the battery first.;

i havent worked on your car but on my old monte which was the same w body, the fuse/relay box would be easier to get to and look under after you unbolt it. i would look for the pink that feeds the relay there. then you know you have the right one. there are alot of repeat colors unfortunately and i have had issues when trying to do something in the car and its not the right wire. they make those fuse taps you could use to get the keyed power or solder and heatshrink to one of those others where the wire is below the fuse box.