hello, all. ive been driving without abs or trac control for about 2 years now, and ive gotten used to it. i am, however tired of the lights and having the DIC tell me my trac system needs service and having to hit the reset button on startup.

i stumbled across this video on youtube, and its got me thinking about fixing mine.


to save you 24 minutes of your life, heres a summary: (atleast on the tahoe platform) a few connections crack and break and need re soldered.

heres where my questions come in. A) if i remove the abs computer from the abs PUMP, will it cause air to leak into the system?

B) what is the likelihood of this being the case on my park avenue?

i have been putting this off for some time because i was always told that if i get air into the abs pump ill be in for a world of hurt. (aside from that, i dont want to have to bleed the brakes in the middle of winter)

my car is currently throwing codes for all 4 wheels and the computer itself. being that all 4 have been replaced (the fronts 3 times) i think its very unlikely that it is the wheels.


any advice is much appreciated. if it turns out that i can do this without leaking air into the system i will tackle it this weekend.

thanks alot guys!

you make sure you have good ground and power to the abs computer? you want me to look for a diagram and post it? they have to be separate somehow as brake fluid and electronics dont mix. some cars have bleed ports on the pumps. i have generally just bled them normally and then go out on a dirt road and activate them and rebleed as necessary obviously this requires them to work. some cars have 4 seperate lines from the master to the pump, if i were going to try and bypass it i would just run the lines to the master instead of the pump. if your car only has two you would have to get a proportioning valve from a car with no abs

my car does have the 4 lines. from this ebay post

i can drive the car with it off. so im guessing that it does not leak air into the system

"We rebuild it within 24 hours and ship it back ready to install. You can still drive your vehicle with the module removed. We recommend covering the exposed surface of the hydraulic control unit with aluminum foil to keep out water and dirt."

id really just like to fix it so those lights and DIC warning will go out. im sick of hitting reset every startup.

also, according to that ebay post i have the same abs module as about 50 different cars. they used it on fords even.

i would check your power and ground before just shotgunning the module

will do. that being said, i think it just has the bad solder terminals as stated in that video. early on, it was intermittant and would kick on the abs at even the lightest press of the brake pedal. then it just started doing what it does now, and disabling it on startup.

When you say ABS computer are you referring to the electronic brake control module (EBCM)? There are several on-line stores that sell used EBCM'* for fairly reasonable prices, perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild. Last one I bought was from Morad. If Morad doesn't have one they will direct you to someone who does.

You are correct that the EBCM is on the dry side of the system. There is no brake fluid involved in changing it.

well, rebuild is free. it would be hard to beat that. lol. the most common problem is cracked connections that need resoldered. if that isnt the case after i rebuild it, then ill look into a new one.

thanks for all the advice!