While replacing the power Steering Fluid, I noticed this on the heater hose that comes from firewall (core) though the elbow/ into tensioner.
It is bulging just before the elbow.

Question 1- Only GM Replacement hoses are recommended Available or ?
Question 2- Can I cold, drain 1 hose at a time and plug core end, so I dont have to drain system...cheat it..with drain can available...LOL...
(done this before on other GM'*)
Thoughts appreciated. THX.

Normally I would just use bulk heater hose cut to the right length, but if yours is like mine the bends look like they will kink unless you use formed hose.

What shape is the hose in? I don't how old your car is, but if the hose is in good shape other than the small split you could cut an inch or so off the end and just use the same hose.

I am sure you can drain it in such a way as to contain and re-use the coolant, but I don't know how old your car is, or when the last time you flushed your coolant was. Maybe this would be a good time to flush the system and install new coolant.

Thanks for reply Roy. Yes the hose is form fit with all the right curves LOL!
I may be able to make do with just cutting off the 1" and fit it back on.
That being said they probably are the original heater hoses, and just best to renew them.
The flush and new coolant was just done (aint that always the case) about 2 months ago after buying the 97 PA and installing the new water pump.
I guess I will call GM & parts store in the am and see what is available and compare prices.
I applied a little silicone to the small cut, let it dry, and then wrapped it tight w/electrical tape to strengthen the bulged area, and then duct tape to hold it all together. I know the cut is not leaking , but still, I guess the best remedy is 2 new fit hoses and get it over with. I guess they are $35 each at GM will know in the AM. Will also check to see if there are after market form fit ones from local parts store. I think GoodYear also makes the hoses too.

Go ahead and replace them, you can get them from RockAuto for total of 27.00 plus shipping.

ACDELCO Part # 16141M #88907381} 23/32" x 19 29/32"
HOSE,MOLDED 4 DOORS; HTR TO PIPE-1 $8.90


ACDELCO Part # 16312M #88920748} 19/32" x 21 3/32" HOSE,MOLDED 4 DOORS; HTR TO PIPE-2 $17.52


I've heard getting those clamps off the hoses at the firewall is a pain, one person said it was more of a pain then any part of a UIM/LIM job.
If your clamps are still good you will most likely need this tool to help with the clamps at the firewall, I plan to get one when I have to do mine, it may be a little pricey, but if it saves me from uttering curse word after curse word, then it is well worth it.

Suddenly cutting the hose at one end sounds more pleasant!
Thanks for the heads up William on the tool needed. I may be able to borrow one from friends shop (if he has one) I have beofre just used special pliers on those clamps, but will have to look how much clearance and how they sit at the firewall/ core connection.
Thanks for Rock Auto parts greatly appreciated.
I hate getting stuck on something that is suppose to be a simple job and cursing.
I did that yesterday when I dropped the power steering cap and then had to recover it.

i always replace those clamps with the standard style because they dont seal right after you mess with them sometimes, they loose there spring it seems

Good idea, I'm sure after you loosen them a few times they could loose a little tension, I normally practice replacing them, but I recently reused my original upper radiator hose clamp and it worked pretty well, of course when I put a new hose on I'll go with a new worm gear style hose clamp.

It looks easier to access heater core area with the square box out of the way.
What is this box?
Two nuts marked with X to remove this box + connector or ????

The other X is the smaller diameter heater hose that has the crack. Is this the OUT hose?

The larger diameter hose is still available from GM (not the smaller diameter) FYI.

Photo forgot to add...tired....as above questions....

That is the box that was specifically designed to interfere with repairing heater hoses. Undo the nuts and leave the connection, you will probably be able to swing it out of the way. I am a strong believer in spending 15 minutes getting components out of the way, rather than spending an extra hour (along with some skin and blood) trying to work on something with limited access.