Hello...just had CV axles replaced on our 1989 Buick LeSabre limited
The shop also took the car to get wheel alignment..before we even left the shop after the job was done, we noticed passenger wheel leans in quite noticeably on the top. We have brand new snowtires on it & dont want to wear them out. The shop suggested that the lot we were parked on may not be level, to drive it & see what it does. We live over 300kms from the shop, so to just "go back" is easier said than done.
Car definately wanders to the drivers side..have called the allignment shop & was told they do "toe in" adjustment, & that the car doesnt have a camber adjustment, that we should go bck to shop as they must've bent something!!

Everything ive found on line, says the car DOES have a camber adjustment...

We are trying to get back to the shop this week, for "warranty" work..does anybody have any thjoughts or ideas as to what went wrong with the install?
Bent something..forgot to instal any shims??? HELP

If it just came out of the alignment shop, it appears they screwed something up. Take it back and have them fix it right. If its leaning, then obviously it can be put back in check.

No adjustment for Camber, no shims to forget.... Somebody screwed something up. The do make aftermarket chamber bolts for such times.

The 92-99 does have camber settings, but i dont know if your is the same. One bug concern though, if the design is the same, and the camber bolts are left loose, it would do exactly what you are describe. What does the alignment sheet say? They should tell you before and after specs.

The camber adjustment on most of our cars should be the upper and lower strut bolts, the struts have elongated holes so that you can loosen them and either push or pull the wheel inward or outward. Have them print you out an alignment sheet with the before and after specs.

okey dokey..drove car all the way back to repair shop, they checked it all over, everything tight & installed properly...turns out it was a BAD allignment Went back to allignment shop & they fixed it..(free of course, love warranty work)..but also found passenger tie rod end is shot, & strut mount bushings/bearings are worn both sides...i guess next replacement is tierod ends, for safety..but we can do that ourselves. The PIA will be strut mounts..that'll be a spring project as snow is coming...thanx for all info

When you get to replacing the tierods, and or strut mounts, be sure to get it realigned.
Quick Struts are fairly cheap, so if the struts already have a good bit of mileage on them, then I'd just replace the struts as a whole unit.

Thx William..will def be pricing out struts as well..i know just for the mounts & bushings, looking at approx $150 per side!!! dunno how much for struts, & hoping/assuming theyy come with mounts etc...the car has just over 300k, so probably overdue, before they start making noise
How hard of a job would this be for us to do?? cant really afford what shops charge, & are capable of attacking it ourselves..i think. Hubby has done them b4, but on a completely different car

If you can find quickstruts they typically come completely assembled so all you have to do is remove the two lower strut bolts and the upper three nuts. They tend to be more expensive but it makes replacing the struts a breeze. Check around at local auto stores. When you replace them you'll have to get another alignment because the angle of the strut affects camber and caster. Hope this helped.

quick struts are an easy job for the average diy'er, you just take out a few bolts, make sure its supported first with a jack, then lower it down slow. put the new one in and reinstall bolts. then take it to the alignment shop. the only issues come up if the big bolts are stuck, sometimes they need some bfh. best to put the nut back on to protect the threads