Since getting my LeSabre back on the road; and fixing the rough idle demon, it has been running great for a car with over 323K miles on it. Yesterday on the way home from a trip, the engine died when I turned onto the road where I live. No sputtering, or anything of that nature. I did not know the engine had cut off until I went to give it fuel to climb the slight grade I was on. Pulled over the side of the road, turn the switch off, and then started the car without a hitch. Now I am scared the cut-off problem has not been solved as I had thought. Haven't looked at it yet but thought I would post in case others have had a smooth, no sputtering, cut-off issue on an older LeSabre or similar vehicle and had traced it to a specific cause.

Sounds like an issue with the crank shaft position sensor. A bad one will give the symptoms you describe.

This car has had a history of the cut-off, dying, on making a slow sharp turn; for example, making a turn into a side street or a sharp turn on an on-ramp; it once went a whole year without cutting off only to return. I thought it had been solved when I changed out the MAF. I have recently done a lot of work on this car, new timing chain/gear/tensioner, replaced CKP sensor, cam sensor, new ICM, new coil packs, new MAF. Throttle position sensor showed a continuous ohm reading through the range of the sensor. ICV appeared to be working as it should; it always starts without problem after dying.

It is a quick cut-off, no sputtering or stuttering, of the engine, just completely quick kill. Here are the kinds of things I need to know. If the fuel pump lost power all of a sudden, would it be a quick kill? If the fuel pressure drops due to the pressure regulator, would it be a quick kill? Can the ICV cause a quick kill? Of course the things controlling the spark, if the spark control completely kills the spark, it would be a quick cut-off but outside of the computer, all those have been replaced.

I found a good deal on the ACDelco pressure regulator for this car; right at $60.00 including the shipping costs. I am wondering if I should not go ahead and order it and replace the regulator since mine is about 19-20 years old. If the regulator goes to leaking fuel, it can blow the top of the intake off.

Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator and smell the open end of the hose. If you smell gasoline the diaphragm in the FPR has failed, and the FPR needs to be replaced.

CPS causes a quick kill. No warning, no notice, just shuts down. Often times it will start right up again. It will get progressively worse.

The regulator does not appear to be leaking.

The car has a new CPS on it. All components that would control spark except for the ECM have been replaced.

Does it seem to be related to fuel level? Will it happen more frequently when the tank is low?

The tank was low, about a 1/4 full if the gauge reads correctly. However, I drove it on almost empty the other day and it did not cut-off. New fuel filter; only been on a few months. However, I have seen it do it with 1/2 tank in the past.

I think I will get it in the shed and crawl under and check the wires where they enter the tank; or near the tank, to check for any possible places that might could short out. I am guessing that if it is fuel shut-off, it has to be the pump losing power as the engine does not stumble.

Roy, your probably gonna wanna do some catch up reading from her previous thread...

https://www.gmforum.com/lesabre-182/...e-17-a-302078/

May be worth mentioning that I suffered through the cut-off problem with my car (94 Delta) for quite awhile.

I read your threads and you've been going through a literal he11 with your car, so I really hope I'm not adding to it here. Anyway, one day I accidentally unplugged my TPS instead of the IAC (long story), and the engine dying stopped. Overdrive went away and gas mileage suffered, but compared to the engine dying, I could live with it until I replaced the TPS.

That being said, it ultimately ended up being an intermittent problem with the TPS ground wire. I found this by stripping the loom off the wiring bundle running along the front and side of the intake and inching along, moving/twisting every single wire while the car was running (I had no multimeter at the time). I found the problem wire, bought some 18ga and replaced it. Engine dying never happened again.

I sure hope this doesn't cause you yet another headache, but would be ecstatic if this fixed it, so figured I'd risk it Good luck!