3800 series II rear valve cover replacement
#2
Retired
Remove the plastic engine cover.
Disconnect the 3 rear spark plug wires and drape them to the front of the engine.
Then you should be able to remove the rear valve cover.
Disconnect the 3 rear spark plug wires and drape them to the front of the engine.
Then you should be able to remove the rear valve cover.
__________________
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
Retired Administrator
2002 *-10 5.7 V8
2023 Jeep Rubicon Diesel
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I also removed the rear lift bracket for a little more room to work back there. Its sitting on a shelf in case I ever pull the engine.
#4
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
PA or PA Ultra? It does make a slight difference.
Disconnect negative battery connection
Remove alternator and it'* support bracket that connect to the lim (on sc if charged)
Remove 3 15mm bolts from alternator bracket (ons is back out of sight)
Remove 2 13mm nuts that hold the engine cover rear bracket to the exhaust studs
Loosen all 6 3/8" valve cover bolts
Gently assist the alternator bracket out of the way enough to wiggle the valve cover out. To far and you break coolant elbows and empty coolant, just enough and you pull off the magic trick.
Clean regasket and reinstall. 87 inch lbs on the 3/8" valve cover bolts.
Disconnect negative battery connection
Remove alternator and it'* support bracket that connect to the lim (on sc if charged)
Remove 3 15mm bolts from alternator bracket (ons is back out of sight)
Remove 2 13mm nuts that hold the engine cover rear bracket to the exhaust studs
Loosen all 6 3/8" valve cover bolts
Gently assist the alternator bracket out of the way enough to wiggle the valve cover out. To far and you break coolant elbows and empty coolant, just enough and you pull off the magic trick.
Clean regasket and reinstall. 87 inch lbs on the 3/8" valve cover bolts.
#5
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill it is the base model, not supercharged. On inspection I wasn't sure if the tensioner needed to come out. I don't think the coolant elbows would be an issue if I only removed the alternator? There is a large wiring harness that lays across the valve cover which doesn't look to have much play. The rear lift bracket in the back looks like it needs to come out too, but I am not sure if the (O2 sensor?) is in the way of it'* removal.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The wiring harness may have loom clips holding it. But it will move enough. Lift bracket doesn't "have" to come off to do the cover gasket. I've done quite a few, last one being a week ago. This is the way I'd do it.
The longer way is drain the coolant, pull the alt bracket (replace elbows on reinstall). It isn't necessary though.
Hope that helps.
The longer way is drain the coolant, pull the alt bracket (replace elbows on reinstall). It isn't necessary though.
Hope that helps.
#8
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Phew that is good news! Thanks Bill - I am going to give it a go tonight. I have the new grommets and plan to put the front back on tonight. I am short and I hate laying across this engine!! Accumulating many war wounds...lol
Getting in good with the Parts counter guys...lol I gave them a bottle of my award winning home made wine for breaking some nuts loose off of my throttle body studs. (I don't have a vice/workbench yet). I was glad they were willing to help...just because! LOL my Dad thinks it is because I am a girl LOL
Getting in good with the Parts counter guys...lol I gave them a bottle of my award winning home made wine for breaking some nuts loose off of my throttle body studs. (I don't have a vice/workbench yet). I was glad they were willing to help...just because! LOL my Dad thinks it is because I am a girl LOL
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eltatertoto
General GM Chat
7
12-27-2012 08:46 AM