hey all. recently i have been having some issues with my car, and they are making me want to sign on the dotted line more than anything else im afraid.

a few weeks ago, i noticed that applying the brake caused the lights to flicker along with a constantly fluctuating voltage. (started a thread about it mistakenly calling it the impala, but since they are the same engine, i didnt see a need to correct it)

recently, the car has randomly been putting itself into high pressure shift mode, even though its not slipping.

and today on my way to work, i noticed a nice big stream of smoke coming from the grille. enough to make me think it was the truck in front of me'* exhaust. but upon craning my head upward, i noticed the truck had a side output exhaust. this abruptly stopped and i pulled into the first parking lot after that light to find nothing wrong at all. (did discover a mouse nest under the engine cover though).


my question is, are there any possible links between these 3 things? the car has no blow-by, good oil pressure, god clean oil and good clean coolant. t-stat was replaced last winter, and is functioning properly. both valve cover gaskets were done this summer.


along with this, and the fact that my subframe bushings are going and the fact i need a new front motor mount, im honestly thinking about answering one of those "we need more used car inventory" letters i keep getting from the dealer.

sorry for the rant. any help is greatly appreciated. im kinda leaning toward the low voltage to the trans computer causing the issues, but i wanted to get some advice before i go out and throw more parts at it.

im no auto trans expert but my inlaws 96 bonnie was doing that banging a couple months before it had to be rebuilt. seems alot of the fwds do that. as far as the steam seems different to me, something could be leaking under pressure when cruising and not at idle, or less so its not as visible.

here is a video i took today. trans fluid looks bran new. no leaks either.


buick park avenue alternator problems - YouTube

to have your gauge be a volt lower than at the battery seems normal. and as far as the fluctuation could be bad alt or going bad but i have suspicions about the optima. i have had a few flake out for one, and i dont think the yellow tops are meant for starting engines(quick discharge-recharge), i would charge it externally and see if it makes a difference. but could be nothing the voltage is supposed to go down as the battery charges

Jason sorry to hear about your ailing PA. Regarding your PA, when was the last time u serviced the trans, did u use dexron 6 fluid and do you have a shift kit in there or spacers in accumulator? Scan for codes? What is the level of trans fluid when hot.The PA likes it a bit above the full line.

Mine does that blink often too but then I am running brighter brake bulbs, and I got an Odyssey battery and a 110 amp at idle 160 amp max alternator. I think the voltage sensing mod would help if your alt is ok. I simply add one volt to the inside dash reading and dont worry about what it is doing anymore as I know the main problem is that the PA idle is too low to produce the correct power until the idle gets above 800 rpm which is the sweet spot for rpm and power generation for the size of our pulley.
I took the top engine cover off, a mouse nest, wonder if they were having a snack on your wiring ...ouch.

welp, i took it to the zone and the nice old dude there told me that the alt was functioning properly, but that also was a block from work. he said if it only happens when the car is warm (like mine) it could be the rectifier in my alternator. i am starting to agree.

the light was so long i actually got the video with my phone. i dont care how far off the DIC is, when all the lights dim like that, theres a problem.

Something just popped in to my head: Cooling fan issues

This would be really easy to identify if you are looking for it. Smoking up front, and why it only happens when warm and stopped. It could explain the tranny concerns as well if you are getting a bit warm and it is upsetting the tranny, but I am assuming you are attentive to your temps.

I say that though because it is acting like there is excessive draw on the system, like a short or something, and the cooling fans are one of the higher amperage applications on the car.

when fans start to go they draw even more current as well

The other excessive draw is from the rear air shock compressor kicking in too..
but I tend to go with both cooling fans kicking in...like Randall stated.
A good shop should be able to properly test the alternator with a load applied and see how many amps the alt is producing. I am wondering if a Midtronics or Snap On tester would show a defect in the rectifier bridge or charging system .