3800 series 1, 89 Sword w/engine knock
 

I was updating the engine tuneup by clearing the OBD1 codes, EGR and low power...
The last tasks were plugs & wires....it seemed to have worked for only a few minutes to an hour @the most.

The idle seems fine and the accelerator peddle indicated a LOT more power...but an engine knock appeared...rather loud @that....:rolleyes:

I checked the OBD1 codes again...Check cam sensor and/or knock sensors:eek:
Did this to both...even replaced them w/spares from the bone yard...but the engine knock it still present.

Since this engine doesn't have any mechanical way to adjust the timing/dwell from a distributor....I am seeking advise from other members who have had experiences w/engine knock....:thumbup2

I had given up on the engine knock being from the cam or knock sensor...for a nosier or loose valve lifters.... So I cleaned them w/commercial solutions...dropped the oil pan for inspection & cleaning...;)

Found some very fine metal shaving...but nothing unexpected for 245,000 miles...the lower end of the pistons looked clean & nothing loose...Nice & tight looking...

W/new oil filter, fluids & conditioners...the engine knock is about 1/2 the volume level but still there...the idle is still smooth but the accelerator power is fairly weak. OBD1 is still giving the cam & knock sensor "alarm"...!!! My Haynes repair manual has been somewhat helpful but it is fairly generic for specific "solutions"....:rolleyes:

I would like to keep the old Sword alive but I don't want to "pour" hundreds of dollars into a deepening HOLE...:confused:

Any thoughts, experience or knowledge about engine knock solutions would be greatly appreciated...Thanks

Is this a knock you can hear? Is it lower in the engine? You said you found metal in the oil. What's your oil pressure?

The engine knock appears to be on the lower end of the engine....No I have not done an oil pressure test .

The engine knock seems to be present mostly when there is not "peddle" pressure...if that's of some help

Thanks for the rapid reply & question(s)...

When I get home I will post a video and you tell me if that's what yoru hearing.

1989 LeSabre 3.8 L engine knock
 

I'll try to post a video clip w/audio of my engine knock....Couldn't find a way to attach it here...Sorry


I have a "cold start" (it's 100 degrees @the moment...!)....idle w/a few pushes on the accelator peddle.... Then the ignitian is turned off....a re-start is made w/a few pushes on the accelator peddle again...:rolleyes:

This time I did notice that the engine knock is present during the entire time it is 'running'...not just @the idle time. You just can not hear the engine knock as much because of the louder noise coming from the EGR valve....I'll have to inspect & test that again but it doesn't throw a OBD1 code anymore.

Hard to hear in this video.
https://www.gmforum.com/attachment.p...ine=1311728780

This one you can really hear.
https://www.gmforum.com/attachment.p...ine=1311728780

Sounds like I have heard your engine before...
 

Hi Danthurs:

Yes, Yes....that sounds very similar to my engine knock...;)

So have you solved your engine knock....?



I noticed you used photobucket to post your videos...I'll try that for my short video clip to compare or hear my engine knock...straight from the old Sword...:thumbup2

another video attempt
 

Let's try this again...still having issues....:confused:

So here is a link to photo-bucket:
http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n545/embassary2002/

Hope this is working...:cool:

That sounds like you spun a bearing.

Yep, that sound is not a good sound. That sound is a rod bearing.

Ok...rod bearing
 

I'll start looking into that possible repair....

Thanks for the extra effort to provide your vehicle "engine knock" & to listen to mine...:thumbup2

Is this a DIY worth the time, $Money & effort for a vehicle w/ 245K miles...?

Well...that depends on you and what it's worth to you.

If a motor goes on my Regal (which I paid $1400 for a year ago) I'd toss $250 into a JY motor, then drop it in within a day. To me that's worthwhile. I'll be putting a transmission in soon. It cost me $200 to rebuild it.

If you think the car is worth $500 and the motor runs you $300.. well, it's all in how you feel about the car.

Well, I like the vehicle & how it handles under normal driving conditions....the engine performed for such a long time...with relatively good mileage around 30 mpg highway...!!!

However, it is becoming a rust bucket...!

I'll probably just part it out or schedule a trip to the bone-yard. The tires, 'CAT', radaditor & transmission will provide a few $Recycled $funds...

X2 on putting a $300 junkyard motor if you like the car but know it has a limited lifespan due to rust.
Then while it is still running you have time to make an informed decision about what you will replace it with.
Roger.

If you have the tools you can rebuild. Pick up a short block, and about $200 in gaskets.

Where ya getting a low cost shortblock S1 Danno? Seems that a possible longblock is much less work .

Around here they want $650+ for a running long block, and $200-$300 for a good short block.

Dayyyyum. Glad I don't live there.

Here at the local "whoknowswhatyourpulling" yard. A long block/whole motor is $175. You don't really know anything about it, but I've pulled a few and had great success.

When I called around they wanted up to $1400 for a engine, plus a core charge. No thanks. I can rebuild for far less.