ok ok lets not fight about caps boys

Any suggestions for my ISF, LPF Frequency, and Input sensitivity?

(I really sound like a noob here) lmao

There is no fight, someone is right, someone is wrong, end of the story.

My suggestion is that you set them correctly:D

LOL well duhhhh I set them to what I thought was right but i just wanted some feedback if maybe im too high/low as opposed to what the subs handle.. idk lol

ok lets work on ur settings... mostly its going to be personal preferance... but first, what is the tuning frequency of ur enclosure? Do u have a subsonic freq adjustment? ur not suppose to use bass boost just pure power, however u dont have another power to do that, so u might have to add a little bass...

If i were u.. i would park in a parking lot of something and turn ur music up to the max volume that you listen to it at, then adjust the gain, bass boost, ect until the bass matches ur interior speakers.

ok I figured that would probably be the best option, thats what i did BEFORE i realized my custom settings in my head unit were erased so now that I have those sounding better tomorrow I will go out and work on those.

I dont know what the tuning frequency is of it, is there a way I can find out? I wasnt the one who installed the subs when I got them I had it done at best buy and of course they dont tell you anything (which is why im taking this into my own hands). I dont know about subsonic frequency adjustment, would that be the LPF? or is it something in the head unit? because i can change sub frequency from high med low but im not sure what else.

Kenwood Performance Series car amplifiers offer long-term reliability and superior sound quality in a compact, no-nonsense package. The KAC-9105D mono sub punches out up to 900 watts RMS to your subwoofers. A rugged cast-aluminum heatsink combines with two cooling fans to keep this amp running at optimal temperatures, even when you're pushing your system hard. And this bass workhorse will handle a 1-ohm load without breaking a sweat, so go ahead and hook up multiple subs.

A built-in low-pass filter lets you adjust the output so you'll get the best sound possible from your subwoofer/box combo. You can dial in up to 18 dB of bass boost if you want to fatten up the sound. A switchable subsonic filter eliminates inaudible, ultra-low noise that could detract from your sub's performance.

An aluminum cover plate covers and protects the amp's controls and connections, giving your installation a professional look. Speaker-level inputs and signal sensing turn-on allow these amps to hook up to factory radios without preamp outputs.



* mono subwoofer amplifier
* 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
* 1-ohm stable (output regulated to 900 watts)
* CEA-2006 compliant
* variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
* bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
* subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )
* phase switch
* Class D design
* speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on
* preamp inputs and outputs
* dual cooling fans
* fuse rating: 30A x 3
* 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
* 13-3/4"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-3/4"D
* warranty: 1 year

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TdrvRBy...KAC-9105D.html

Haha, gotcha.

Nobody can tell you just by looking at it if your gain is set properly, but your ISF looks good, lpf is pretty high and the bass boost is high too. I never turn the bass boost up at all, and when I do it's no more than 1/4 of the way. Turning that up just increases the chances of sending a clipped signal to your amp. Your lpf should be determined how low your mids can play down to, mine play down to 60Hz so I have my low pass set to 60Hz so my subs play everything below that.

That's surprising. Perhaps they improved the newer models.

I'm in the market for another amp for a new car I'm picking up on Tuesday if you're willing to sell your old MRP-M500.

Another thing, I was right about the Alpine being a better amp. It was tested at 703 watts at 14.4V, which means the 500W rating was at the just over 13V your car would normally experience, while the Kenwood's 900W rating is at 14.4V.

In either case, if you're happy with it, that's what matters most.

yea i havent heard many good things about later models, but when you guys were saying it wasnt CEA certified and its bad and blah blah and im seeing all these good reviews and all that it got me wondering so I looked it up some more.. but all that aside I'll take your advice on the settings because the bass boost is a bit intense, i was playing Move If You Wanna by MiMs which is a very loud bass song and it made my ears literally hurt lmfao.. the LPF is I believe the subsonic frequency that was mentioned earlier so I will turn that down a little more

I have one of the older kenwoods and i liked it, until I bridged the wires on the metal floor of my trunk....now I have a nice, heavy, current drawing paperweight.

anyways on to your settings, No LPF and the subsonic filter are two different things the LPF sets the highest frequency (I.E 80hz) that the subwoofer will receive. the subsonic (or infrasonic as I think the kenwood calls it) filters the lowest frequency that the subwoofer will receive. since the human ear and car speakers have limitations if your amp is sending out signals below a certain frequency it's basically wasting power, on mine the infrasonic filter has 3 settings off, 15hz and 25hz. I ran mine on 15hz since when it filtered the 25 hz out it sounded a little hollow

anyways hope this helps and that I didn't repeat something I didn't read