Need some sub advice
#101
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This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
#102
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Whats the face for MONTE? lol. lets all get along. We have a common interest and are here for X threw these awesome times.
Lets throw my Fi Q into the mix! Hehehe. And I just put my system back in my trunk and wired the sub to 4 ohms (1100w rms) so my bass is clean, crisp, accurate and not ungodly loud. Sounds great with no dimming or voltage drop. Just dont have that getting punched in the back of the head feel. Sounds like a good trade off to me!
Lets throw my Fi Q into the mix! Hehehe. And I just put my system back in my trunk and wired the sub to 4 ohms (1100w rms) so my bass is clean, crisp, accurate and not ungodly loud. Sounds great with no dimming or voltage drop. Just dont have that getting punched in the back of the head feel. Sounds like a good trade off to me!
#103
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No. They're installed IB in the door panel. I installed them in the factory hole from the front side. Then I fiberglassed the mdf ring, down over the clay, and on the backside of the door panel. I did a few layers in whole area around the speaker, probably about a third of the whole panel. I'm just not sure that it improved my midbass. Maybe the door panel doesn't seal against the door frame tight enough or something.
You guys are nuts. Somehow I have the feeling that my Pioneer DEH-4000UB is a perfectly adequate amp even for an enthusiast. Wish I did have all of those adjustments, but I can't say that it sounds bad by any means, and I've had a few cars to compare it to. This is my second Pioneer head unit, the first had that stupid micro fuse blowout. Silly me, I threw it away not knowing it could actually have been used.
This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
#104
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Gotcha. Is your door deadened? When I did my system I deaded the whole thing, sealed up all the wholes and put a layer as far as I could on the doorskin itself. I also used modeling clay to seal up the gaps all around the factory baffle. My midbass response is pretty good for 6.5'*.
The problem with the Bonneville is the door structure has huge holes and no metal to speak of where the speaker mounts. I didn't have much choice but to mount to the door panel, unless I did some major custom work to the door, which I don't really have the tools and skill for at this time.
#105
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Yeah, I put deadener on the outer door skin and some on the inner door bracing as well. Due to funds I used Fatmat, but it'* better than nothing.
The problem with the Bonneville is the door structure has huge holes and no metal to speak of where the speaker mounts. I didn't have much choice but to mount to the door panel, unless I did some major custom work to the door, which I don't really have the tools and skill for at this time.
The problem with the Bonneville is the door structure has huge holes and no metal to speak of where the speaker mounts. I didn't have much choice but to mount to the door panel, unless I did some major custom work to the door, which I don't really have the tools and skill for at this time.
#106
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What I'd love to do if I had the time/money/skill is mold a couple sealed e8'* into my center console to play from like 50-120/150 hz or so, tune my sub nice and low, and then have my mids pick up at 120-150.
#107
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That would be sick! I've been thinking about building some kick pods for my components and them glassing in some nice 6.5" mid-woofers into my doors.
#109
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Passive is using external crossovers (consisting of capacitors,resistors, etc) to filter the low stuff to the woofers, high stuff to the tweeters, etc. Active is using your head unit, a electronic crossover, or your amplifiers built in crossovers to do the filtering. Active gives you greater control of the sound and less wasted energy (passive crossovers aren't as efficient, IIRC).
#110
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This is extremely tempting compared to making my own box:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SE102C.../ref=de_a_smtd
This is also .75 cubic feet per sub, which is exactly what the guy who'* selling me these subs recommended. That would come out to $41 shipped to my door. I really doubt I could build one for that much and still have 3/4" MDF.