had this problem twice this week....and been searching this forum for hours.....HELP......I have a remote start on the vehicle and it already has the relay for bypassing the key.......from what i read i should be ok but i'm not....tried to start the vehicle wouldn't start even with the remote start wont turn over....security light on,waited a little bit started up....couple days later went to remote start and nothing..a couple minutes later try again with key and starts...since the problem the security light is always on....when i shut the car off it blinks.shut the doors it'* solid.shuts off after awhile

Because you have a remote starter, it'* most likely that the problem lies within the bypass relay and/or wiring. Since the wires are so small, it'* sometimes difficult to make a good connection. Most installation shops will have a lifetime warranty on the labor so I'd suggest taking it back to where it was originally installed. If you are not the original purchaser of the starter or vehicle, it usually will not qualify for the lifetime warranty. In that case, you'll need to dig into it yourself.

To begin, lower the driver'* hush panel (and perhaps the panel below the steering column) and inspect the wiring. The VATS wires are 2 very small white wires contained in an orange covering. There'* probably a couple of butt connectors and you may see a disconnected wire. Most installers use the red butt connectors which are too large for the gauge wires. I use tiny yellow ones found at Radio Shack. I believe the card says that they are for telephone wire. The other problem is that the resistor(*) can be outside the +/- 5% tollerance that the VATS module has. In this case, you'll have to replace the resistor to get closer to the value in the key

thats funny you say that because i moved all the wiring around took the car out for a couple of hours and the security light operated like it normally does and the car gave me no problems. the relay for the vats was spliced in with red but connectors...i'm going to bring the car back to my audio guy and have go over it...thanks

Good. That'* very good troubleshooting, believe it or not. I'd suggest soldering and heat-shrinking every connection on the remote start.

Personally, I haven't had much luck soldering the VATS wires. They are more like string than wire... wierd stuff. By all means if your audio guy can solder them, it'll be better. The little yellow butt connectors have served me well over the years.

The trick is to use a non-insulated (cut off the insulation if you need to) butt or stub splice, then after crimping, solder the cavity.

Excellent suggestion. I never thought of doing it that way.

You da man, Bill.

Might I add to slide a piece of shrink tubing on the wires before crimp/solder (unless you use a stub splice, and can do it better). I much prefer shrink to tape.