As am I.

I'm running a 1600W RMS @ 1 ohm amp on a 1600W RMS @ 1 ohm sub, and when I crank that sucker to the max, my lights don't dim, my voltage doesn't drop significantly, and the bass notes hit hard, deep, and powerful.

How? I have a battery in my trunk, and contrary to what you might believe, its my only battery. It got moved to the trunk to make space for my cold air intake. All of my wiring is 0/1 gauge, and I'm using the stock L67 alternator. I'm going to get some voltage readings tomorrow under maximum load.

Let me make a comparison.



The red wire is 8 gauge, the blue wire is 4 gauge, and the pearl white wire is 0/1 gauge. The amps are run off of the 8 and 4 gauge wires combined (long story) through a distribution block. The battery is brand new. If you're going to get a loud sound system going, do not do ANYTHING before you upgrade your wiring. That is the absolute first thing you need to do, no ifs and or buts. Sell an amp or something to buy some power wiring.

Hey, one good batt, with no restrictions from wiring, is better than two okay batts with wiring not much better than stock. When I can afford to get my batt replaced I'm thinking about getting a g31 (those massive truck batts) or a marine g28 for my trunk and deleting the front batt.

Ya, Battery amps in the crucial point, not battery count. I wouldn't go with a deep cycle battery. Starting a car with a deep cycle battery shortens it life considerably. They are not built to do this and why there are starting batteries and deep cycle ones made. I use one of each in my 32' boat for that reason. Smaller ski boats do use just the marine and suffer shorter lives. Just saying, if longevity and cost are to be considered.

Voltage drop is an inevitable law of electrical physics. You can't avoid it. Minimizing it is of course desirable. But can't be factored out totally. Here'* a very good wire spec reference and online calculator for setting up a system.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Yep.

Damn, that'* alot of voltage to pick up from just the Big 3 Get a SVR battery

Damn! Mine'* like 2ft

That doesn't shock me at all cause I have a SAZ-1500D wired to 1 ohm pushing a pair of SA-12'* and I too get no dimming and have only done the Big 3 and got a new battery (SVR), wiring is 2ga. and I too have the stock alternator.

Alot of this in the 1500 watt range is how hard you push it. Full tilt you are nearing if not exceeding the stock altenators output with other things going. Alot of variables in the mix to consider. But who runs around with twin 12'* maxxed......NM. hehehehe

I didn't know that. Maybe I'll just get a starting batt for now and add a deep cycle to it when I get the money. You can just parallel the two without any fancy doodads right?

Yeah, but I had stupidly low charging voltage. I think I barely hit 13 volts warm, like 13.4 cold. First cold start with just the alt run and the batt-chassis ground (big 2? =P) I hit 14.8!

Come to think of it, I never did pick anything up from adding the engine-chassis ground. Maybe I'll have to redo it and see if I gain some more.

Marine Batteries are actually a balance between the two to enable starting applications of smaller marine engines, but a car starter is pushing it. I have seen people go that route, your just trading some of it'* life off. If you go shop around you will be able to find a "starting battery" of a size (1000+) you want. Just saying why go marine if you can find the proper battery in a size that works.

You really need a battery isolator to use two battery'*. Otherwise one will be overcharging often and dieing quickly. Taxes your alternator as well.

Like mentioned, if your only in the 1500 +/- watts range, a large Battery and ugrading all wiring should not need a second battery. All are just pieces of a puzzle that can be mixed around as long as the end result is minimal voltage drop.

Even with two batteries if you are leaving each not fully charged at the end of the day, voltage drop can be minimal (unless your batts slowly loss further charge each day) yet battery life impacted. Whatever the setup, all things need balance.

Using batteries in the trunk without venting is a health hazard. Don't care what someone smells or not, you are exposing yourself and passengers to hydrogen and sufide combinations.

A good ground is just that and you can't make better. LOL. It doesn't help to enlarge the wire really, More important is the you ground to bare clean metal and use an no-ox grease.

Everyone I've personally known that has used an isolator for dual batts has had them fail. I ran without one for almost a year and my back battery only died when the box broke and the batt grounded out against my seat.



[quote]=GXP Venom;1492516]Using batteries in the trunk without venting is a health hazard. Don't care what someone smells or not, you are exposing yourself and passengers to hydrogen and sufide combinations.[quote]

Page 3 man. Beat ya to it. dh2

They should have bought a decent one with an amp rating capable of it'* application. Not off a WallyWorld or generic audio shelf.

Every large marine boat and RV made with multiple batteries uses an isolator between it'* starting and storage batteries. Because they use different battery sizes and type for each, And they don't just burn out. My boat has 5 years on it. And I know of alot of others with alot more years than that working fine. You can alleviate most of no isolator wear if you buy identical batteries at the same time. I change my dually truck batteries out at the same time regardless of whether the "good one" still holds a charge.

I read your health statement , but after seeing a pic of a battery in the trunk, I need to be legally "pat" about whats shared here.