Amp is a MA AUDIO HK2000D TOP OF THE LINE 1,800 WATT RMS POWERFUL MONO-BLOCK CAR

Sub specs are:

Digital Audio’* new bandpass enclosures feature a revolutionary new port design that enables them to hit louder than ever before. These enclosures feature ultra black carpet, red micro neon and brushed aluminum terminals for the ready for show finish that you are looking for.


# 3 Digital Audio 12 inch Subwoofers
# Deluxe Bandpass Box
# Red Neon Light Kit
# 50 oz. Strontium Magnets
# Power Handling: 900 Watts RMS
# Sensitivity 107dB
# Frequency Response:27Hz - 150Hz
# Impedance 4-Ohm Mono
# Bent Plexiglass Window


So we wired this up, ran the wires inside to the box.. and some songs, it sounds like there isnt even any subs, and some sound like I have 1 8" sub in the back.

Gain is set to full, power, bass, all set to full, and its WEAKKKKKKK!

WTF is going on?!?!?

where are you getting your audio signal from?

I'm just guessing but chances are that the box is wired incorrectly.

Are the Subs moving when the Bass hits ?

How many Sets of terminals on the outside of the Box ?

What is the Total Resistance (Ohms) of the Enclosure ?

To Test this; turn the stereo and car off, disconnect the Box wires from the Amp.
Get a Multimetre set it to Ohms. Put the Red lead on the + terminal & the Black on the - terminal on the side of the Box.
What is the resistance in Ohms ? 4....2....1 ?

Are the speakers DVC (Dual Voice Coil) ?

Where did you get the Amp & Box from ?

How old are they (new or used) ?


Second thing I would do is turn down the Gain on the Amp (So you don't fry the test speaker) and hook up another box to test the Amps output (Borrow one from a friend or a stereo shop). This will tell you if the Amp is good or not.


Also I just want to share some insite, the rattings for these amps are unrealistic unless you have an upgraded Altenator cause they are rated for higher voltage than what your car can produce. Its a marketing trick.

RMS Power @ 14.4V
750W @ 4 Ohm
1000W @ 2 Ohm
1500W @ 1 Ohm

RMS Power @ 17.0V
1000W@ 4 Ohm
1500W@ 2 Ohm
1800W @ 1 Ohm

Answer the questions & do the tests and lets go from there,
Dutch

x2

Sounds like reversed polarity to me. Double check the wiring.

That and bandpass? Thats hard to make sond good. I beilieve if you have 3 subs no matter what box it should sound good anyway. Probally wiring.

I agree... check all of your wiring. Make sure your ground is SOLID!! Scrape ALL of the paint away from your ground point, make sure that point is within 12" of the amplifier, check the fader on your head unit.. If you dont have a non-fading subwoofer output, you may have the fader too far to one side, if you do have a sub-out... you may have it turned down...

and there is no reason that you should have your amps bass boost or gain all of the way up... in fact, I wouldnt use any bass boost at all... its never good for your speakers

Also, make sure that the crossover is set to LOW PASS, no higher than 100hz! I also believe that amp has a subsonic filter.. set it to about 30-35hz

I have used a few of these MA audio amps in installations I have done. I know that they are quality amps.. and no, thats not a marketing gimick... the HK 2000D is a high current class D... With more voltage, It puts out more power and is built mainly for competition use, where most serious competitors use upgraded electrical systems. If he wanted MA Audio he should have gotten one of the MA Hardkore Class AB amps... the 1200 watt 1 channel would have been a better bet and cheaper

Some subwoofer preouts are off by default on some Head units.

The stuff you listed for your subs leads me to believe they're not the best stuff out there by any means, but they should still make noise. MA wont put out advertised power @ normal car power levels until you have a competition power system, IMO i'd get something else for the money, but that'* another discussion.

Check ALL wiring. This solves so many problems it'* ridiculous. Turn on, RCA'*, Main Power and Ground need good contacts Try to solder on your terminals as opposed to crimping. If you're using a battery clamp make sure it'* got a good corrosion free connection. Check ALL your fuses as well.

Hell, i've gone as far before to put two cars bumper to bumper, and try different RCA'* on my amp from someone elses setup. Maybe try running something else on RCA (ipod, home stereo, etc) into it. The goal is finding the lone problem. Single it out as best as you can.

$100 says phase issues.

How much are the subs moving as is? Not at all? Or a little? Or like crazy?

And how are the 3 subs wired together?

Theres a few thigns that I noticed though. He has his gain all the way up. Thats not good, so im sure there are other things that can contribute to the subs not working properly. Could be both output settings and wiring or one of the two.

He hasnt replied to anyone so its hard to tell, but I also bet its the wiring. Usually when there are more than two subs, they go in series depending on the amps capability to handle low Ohm loads. Wiring them in series can be tricky if you dont know exactly how.

Another thing I noticed is I tried looking up the sub box he has that appears to come built and prewired, but I only found the bandpass with 2 12'* not three as mentioned.