don't want to lose memory
 

ok I want to have a remote starter put into the car but dont want to have 2 remotes on my key chain. my car has the memory on the factory remotes so it know which driver it is. i was woundering if anyone knows of away to train the new remotes to be driver one or two, or away to get the factory remotes to work with the new system

When I got mine done, it was relatively cheap, because my car has "old technology" ie no key FOB or factory installed keyless entry etc.

It may get pricey to redo the wiring and the codes etc involved in a factory FOB, best thing to do is to shop around, ask lots of questions and see what they have to say.

Mine was $250 to do keyless entry, running light flash and remote start. No extra wiring was needed, simply cuz it didn't exist.

I know its not much here, but its a start for you.

I'll tell ya tho, its handy, my car prefers the remote starts to my manual starts, seems to run better...I dunno how...LOL

Re: don't want to lose memory (adding a remote starter)
 

Possibly... The BulldogSecurity RS-82 remote starter has now got new packaging that claims it will work with the existing car's remote transmitter, if I read that right. How it does that I don't know, unless it does something like sense an Unlock pulse from the car's own keyless-entry system, and use that to trigger its engine-start sequence, if it detects that the car is not already running.

You could try their website at http://www.bulldogsecurity.com and see if there's anything more specific about it.

Usually you don't need the car's own keyring remote after you install the remote starter, because it has its own controller for unlocking doors, popping the trunk, etc., but I see what you mean about the driver memory feature; I don't know how the remote starter could operate it, because the transmitted signal is going to the aftermarket receiver, not the car's own keyless-entry receiver.

If the RS-82 can do its thing by watching the car's own unlock sequence rather than initiating one of its own, you might be home free.

As far as i know you cant train a remote.

the new unit has to have the availible circutry that wil work with your factory options.
Some come with harneses for factory options.
None of the ones iVe found are cheep.

you can have your remote programed to do allmost any thing, (windows,sunroof,doors,trunk,lights,ignition,radio , Even the heated seats.)
I it is electric you can us a remote to triger it.

But each one has to be set up with a unit that can handle these options.
installers charge extra for each one also.(accept the standard options the unit is designed for).

talk to some installers and do some checking around.
youll find all you need. and more.

Right; the car has to learn the remote, not the other way around.

Well, yes and no; what it needs to do is to be able to operate the options, but it doesn't need to "know" a whole lot about them beyond what is required to switch their circuit(s) on.

For example, a trunk release usually needs a 12-volt positive pulse, so the remote controller needs to either bypass the existing trunk-release button (i.e. connect its input to its output) to use the circuit's own power to operate it, just as if you were pressing the existing button, or it needs to inject its own 12-volt power into the output wire going to the trunk release, so that it can operate the trunk release even when the car is off.

As another example, interior light circuits are usually hot at all times, and switch on by grounding the circuit, as opposed to turning on power _to_ the circuit. So a remote controller that wants to switch on the interior lights has to provide a ground path rather than a power supply. It can do this two ways: either with a lead from its controller that provides a 12-volt _negative_ pulse (i.e. it grounds itself), or by using a 12-volt positive pulse that closes a relay, and the main connection through that relay is a ground path rather than a power supply.

Right, in fact I thought the BulldogSecurity T-harness, that's supposed to provide a plug-in connection for the main wiring at the ignition switch, was not only wildly overpriced but didn't really save a whole lot of time anyway, since it's all the fiddly little secondary connections for accessories and stuff that take the most time to do properly.

Yes, you need to know how the circuit is actuated, and whether your controller provides a positive or negative pulse. This will tell you whether you'll need a relay to control it or whether you can wire it straight through. (If it's a high-current accessory, you'll probably need a relay anyway.)

Yup; having done all this myself I can tell you it's really labor-intensive for some of this stuff. None of the hardware is particular expensive (e.g. relays are a couple of bucks apiece; outfits like Crutchfield will sell you a bare controller box with remotes for $30), but the knowledge, expertise and time required to put it all in is where you can spend a ton o' money.

The catch is that in all this setup, none of it that I've seen is adding to the car's own system; it's bypassing it. Thus I'm stumped about how an aftermarket remote starter can signal the car's own memory for driver settings, because all the remotes I've seen act by ignoring the car controller and making use of their own instead.

I agree, and if you want the aftermarket controller to able to signal Driver I or Driver II from the car's memory pre-sets, make sure you are crystal-clear in explaining to the installer what you're after. Demonstrate it for him so he knows exactly what you're talking about. If you have buttons on the door panel or someplace that can be pressed to identify who's behind the wheel, they can possibly add a remote capability for that as well, especially if the aftermarket controller can identify one of its own remotes from another. (i.e. If the signal comes from remote ID #134756, pulse Driver I circuit; if the signal comes from remote ID #134757, pulse Driver II; that kind of thing.)