I loved my steering wheels controls. But ever since my aftermarket HU, I actually don't miss them as much as I thought I would.

Custom, its prolly because of the Ribbon cable, and the SWC are actually controlled in the HU

Thats because there IS NO VOLTAGE on the sensor wire...

Perhaps this will help....

I have a home audio distro system I wanted IR in...

Way expensive in the home theatre market.

After I got the SWI-x it dawned upon me that this is really the answer
for cheap IR distro- I use a keypad (6 button) and wire a resistor
to each button (other side is ground) All the resistors wire to a
single "sensing" wire..... Push button and the pac senses the
"resistance" on the wire.... sweet and Maximum Cheapo IR distro...

One PAC and 4 controllers (one programmin' cycle) and done!

So if that helps you? if not the "sence" wire is merely a 'differential"
to ground... The pac is just attached to a "resistor network" and the
resistance twixt "volume" and "scan up" buttons determines the
action.... This is exactly how the factory head works....
with environment/ audio controls the same just differing values.

As to the PAC directly the real trouble is that the wheel itself
has a "native" resistance very close to the resistance of the
upper left most steering control.... so (especially when hot)
turning the wheel raises resistance which in turn the pac
see'* as that button.... program it to something useless....

Otherwise the PAC has been awesome to me and works
about flawlessly 90% of the time.... The sun effects responce
and sometimes my HU is in a different "mode" and wont accept
IR codes that are associated with the wheel..

Turn OFF system
press and HOLD the "program" button on the PAC while powering up
after the system flashes a bit it waits for "program mode"
press program once.... wait 7 seconds for the flash - power off

The pac is in "mode one" of like several hundred....

Power back on and you should see ONE flash of the right LED
(presents current mode left led is 10'* right 1'*)

Press and hold "program" until the left light comes on & release
press steering button until light goes out release (right should illumniate)
press remote control command to map button to...

Continue until all are encoded and when done (left LED is lit)
wait 7seconds then two flashes of both and DONE....

What to watch for is (as I mentioned) if the wheel itself is sensed...
(left light goes out without pressing a button) this is the big "getcha"
and a few weeks back I tried to re-program my buttons in the heat
of the day and could not encode 'cuz the wheel would interfere
- did it in the mornin' no trouble.... (and no stray'* since)

So no the wheel is not controlled by the factory HU

Aint no EQ gonna help since the values of freq'* CHANGES due to volume
goin' up down.... Factory head STINKS (and ifin' you all remember I was
trying to keep mine and you folks thought me a heretic!)

Even a parametric couldnt constantly effect needed changes all the time

Just too much aftermarket offers against what factory offers
You really WANT speed control volume..... He'* SICK!

FWIW

Thanks Howy. As soon as I try to program the SWI-X the left LED goes out a second after I press the "program button." I tried several times and it instantly turned off after it turned on. the Right LED never turned on. :(

As soon as I try to program the SWI-X the left LED goes out a second after I press the "program button."

I tried several times and it instantly turned off after it turned on.
the Right LED never turned on.
_______________________________________
Sounds correct so far....

Press and HOLD the program button until the left LED lights up - release
press control button on wheel release - right LED lights
press remote button desired - left LED lights
the last button programmed with the remote should leave the
left LED lit - and after 7sec both should blink...

You might try resetting the "mode" and verify against
the chart that your car is using mode one.... If I remember I will too....

Lastly check your "sense" wire against a meter via resistance (ohms)
which should change values to the button.... just to verify the wire

I've always held down the "program" button until the lights flashed and
the left lit up... the directions say to "press" but I too had similar responce
to a quick press.... You only get 7 seconds to press the steering button
at first but you can relax and take your time after it gets goin'.

1) make sure the swi-x is in the proper mode
2) start programming when left led is glowing
3) left led must be lit for the program to be saved

I really had no trouble at all and have hacked two of these up
a LOT... longer sensing wires extended the LED emitter leads
and it'* been durable and reliable so far even tho' programmin'
was trying at times (even for a simple interface)

You might want to call PAC and they can verify if the module
passes diag'* or needs replaced... Great Folk there.

Hope you get it goin' and it'* worth the trouble!

I disconnected the green wire from the vehicle and tried programming again. The Left LED turns flashes only once when going into programming. It will not stay lit. I think my SWI-X is defective. (I had it in my last vehicle but that was over a year ago.) Before I get another interface, can you confirm this is the correct wire? You can see the splice I used on the blue wire. thanks. (this is directly under the steering column.)

I see you're getting some very specific answers to your question, but I'd like to offer some general thoughts: I think you ought to be able to get really good sound out of the factory head unit, if you replace the stuff *after* the head unit. Keep the factory head unit, but run it to an aftermarket amplifier and speakers, with an EQ in there if you need it. The JL digital processor is cool, but I suspect it is overkill and that you can get results just as good without it.

What I'd want to know is: Has anyone here done it? Kept the factory head unit but drive an aftermarket amplifier and speakers? -And how does it sound, and were there any problems in hooking it all up?

First off: Sorry to hi-jack your original thread

To better offer personal responce I wanted to keep my original unit.
It was tape with horrible hiss or radio... Nice to be FM FREE!

Anyway I found myself constantly twiddling and fussing with the eq
to compensate for varying volume levels. (Now it'* for music!)

Very very annoying. I started with x9'* and an amp for it is pointless
to get decent speakers without some amplitude. Lest us forget that most
aftermarket speakers are also 4ohm. Sounded reasonable. Added in a
pair of 15'* I got on the cheap and have since gone to a pair of better 12'*.

Wanted MUSIC 'tho so a CD/mp3 player had to follow. Opted for an
HU as opposed to modulated players. Not enough con'* to worry about.
Basically chimes and turning off the HU (not off with the door'*).
I cant say I'd perfer a factory CD deck now that I'm rigged as I am
currently and - really - quite happy with the end results for a low
budget rig. HU - a couple amps - x9'* - 12'* - factory front end but
that will change in due time.

Good post originally but as opposed to a new thread lets try to move along:


Wheel controls are maintained by a PAC SWI-x. It'* not perfect but
it'* a suprisingly good performer and better overall (install/use) than
I had expected.

The thread has dissolved into installation on an OLDS and NOT a Bonnie.

We're making an assumption that they are wired the same and may not be
as we're supposing.

Here'* the options I have:
Alero (which I'd think closer to your car) GM24 connector - pin a7
92-02 with air bag and climate controls GM32 connector -
92-02 with air bag without climate controls GM32 connector
OTHER - ribbon connector stays in dash

So re-check the application guide for your ride - PM me if you dont
have a copy and we'll figure up this wiring since there are some
changes to the pac wiring with different olds models.

Your photo is correct to my car except my bundles are on either
side of the column but the connector is tapped in the same wiring
as mine with functionality on my end...

Ohh... you didnt CUT that wire and wire it directly?

Directions specifically state "tap" and do not "cut"

?

I used a wire 'tap' to get the signal. I didn't cut the wire. My steering wheel also has controls for the climate control adn those still work. As for the wiring maybe not the same between the olds and pontiac, the instructions on the PAC site are identical.