14.4 Volts?
08-18-2011, 05:16 PM
#21
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No Dakota just thinks he knows more than he really does
08-18-2011, 08:14 PM
#22
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Thanks for the insight steve..
I hope you can get your struts done easily they can be a PITA..Also aftermarket guages are usually a little more accurate if that is something you would want to install so you can monitor it closely..with your sbs and all
I hope you can get your struts done easily they can be a PITA..Also aftermarket guages are usually a little more accurate if that is something you would want to install so you can monitor it closely..with your sbs and all
08-19-2011, 11:31 PM
#23
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Time for MY two cents. lol. Last year I changed the front shock assemblies and the rear air struts. Used Monroe Quick Struts on the front (pre-built shock/strut assembly). Picked up a set of rear air struts from Autozone for $64. To be honest, I was SHOCKED at how easy it was to change to air struts. The hardest part was removing my sub system. Once the trunk was empty, it only took about 45 minutes to change both sides. I'm sure it could take longer, but it was pretty simple, mainly due to the fact that the strut and spring are totally separate in the rear.
While I was at it, I also upgraded the worn rubber sway bar bushings (body and end-link) to polyurethane. Changing just one corner at a time was funny as hell. She'* a little over ten years old, and it was all stock. After changing just one of the front assemblies, she looked just stupid. There was such an extreme tilt in the front end since the old springs were SOOOO worn. Now with all the new suspension components and firmer bushings she handles GREAT! MAJOR improvement! Good luck to you!
While I was at it, I also upgraded the worn rubber sway bar bushings (body and end-link) to polyurethane. Changing just one corner at a time was funny as hell. She'* a little over ten years old, and it was all stock. After changing just one of the front assemblies, she looked just stupid. There was such an extreme tilt in the front end since the old springs were SOOOO worn. Now with all the new suspension components and firmer bushings she handles GREAT! MAJOR improvement! Good luck to you!
08-29-2011, 06:55 PM
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Volt meters in cars are good for reference and lame for accuracy. And never read the same car for car. What your seeing in the Bonny is the voltage regulator at work. It is normal for it to slide in voltage as the battery is charged to capacity, To constantly charge a battery on high voltage only burns them out. You can't conquer voltage drop by upping the voltage when adding audio equipment. It is the amperage deficit that causes the drop. With the big 3, and second battery in the trunk you should be fine. If it takes the Bonny 10 minutes for the voltage to settle (and it should settle) you may have a leaking rear shock. That would cause the air compressor to kick on without the key on.
ok here is the thing... ur gonna see the highest voltage at startup.. cause thats when the car idles the highest.. it will level off as the car warms up and the idle drops...
start with doing your big 3 upgrade and a Nice battery under the hood...
just cause the battery says 14v doesnt mean it will rest at 14v... it just means it can hold up to 14v... there are also 18v car batteries... made for competitions mainly tho... if u got any more audio questions let me know
start with doing your big 3 upgrade and a Nice battery under the hood...
just cause the battery says 14v doesnt mean it will rest at 14v... it just means it can hold up to 14v... there are also 18v car batteries... made for competitions mainly tho... if u got any more audio questions let me know
How would I go about installing an aftermarket gauge?
08-29-2011, 07:14 PM
#27
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You probably don't need a permanent aftermarket gauge, you could use a digital multimeter and test it. A permanent aftermarket gauge would likely just need a good ground and then a tap into any switched positive line.
08-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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I wouldn't mind an permanent aftermarket gauge. Especially if the dash isn't reliable. lol
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