2k+ solid motor mount
02-04-2006, 03:42 PM
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2k+ solid motor mount
I need input from each of you that have done this.
Parts, procedures, and pics if you have them. This is for a Techinfo article.
Parts, procedures, and pics if you have them. This is for a Techinfo article.
02-05-2006, 02:12 AM
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What are the advantages of doing this?
I can see the purpose on a suped up RWD, but is this really necessary on a FWD?
Would this have any effect on torque steer?
What about vibration?
I can see the purpose on a suped up RWD, but is this really necessary on a FWD?
Would this have any effect on torque steer?
What about vibration?
02-05-2006, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Awhit003
What are the advantages of doing this?
I can see the purpose on a suped up RWD, but is this really necessary on a FWD?
Would this have any effect on torque steer?
What about vibration?
I can see the purpose on a suped up RWD, but is this really necessary on a FWD?
Would this have any effect on torque steer?
What about vibration?
go outside, lift the hood, rock the car(back and forth) in park, see all that movement
that is not good for all the fule lines, electrical lines, exhaust pipe so on and so on.
it will also help the torque steer. it will help put the power to the ground.
ROD
02-05-2006, 03:59 PM
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taken straight from the post...
jack car up, put jack stand under the engine/tranny and set jack back down... slightly.. enought to take tension off the mount... take off 3 bols on the mount, and 1 on the bottom, and remove all together
parts i picked up - pucks were $2.99 each and the bolt setup was $10
make a template to center your drill holes, however this is not really crucial
mark...
and drill
put bolt thru
make sure everything is just as thick as the old mount
wrapped in electrical tape just for cosmetic
attach bracket in reverse order
leftovers that i can return to home depot... so about a $13 mod
jack car up, put jack stand under the engine/tranny and set jack back down... slightly.. enought to take tension off the mount... take off 3 bols on the mount, and 1 on the bottom, and remove all together
parts i picked up - pucks were $2.99 each and the bolt setup was $10
make a template to center your drill holes, however this is not really crucial
mark...
and drill
put bolt thru
make sure everything is just as thick as the old mount
wrapped in electrical tape just for cosmetic
attach bracket in reverse order
leftovers that i can return to home depot... so about a $13 mod
02-09-2006, 06:14 PM
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I used the same three hockey pucks, but also a 1/2" thick piece of rubber (that I cut out with a 3" hole saw) on top of them, and a 12" piece of 1/2" threaded rod (allthread), two nuts, two large washers, and a lockwasher. Same procedure.
02-09-2006, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey383
I used the same three hockey pucks, but also a 1/2" thick piece of rubber (that I cut out with a 3" hole saw) on top of them, and a 12" piece of 1/2" threaded rod (allthread), two nuts, two large washers, and a lockwasher. Same procedure.
What do you think about it?
02-09-2006, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_peperni
Originally Posted by mikey383
I used the same three hockey pucks, but also a 1/2" thick piece of rubber (that I cut out with a 3" hole saw) on top of them, and a 12" piece of 1/2" threaded rod (allthread), two nuts, two large washers, and a lockwasher. Same procedure.
What do you think about it?
It does squeel the tires alot easier than before, so I know it'* putting power down quicker. The ride doesn't seem any rougher, and when I turn corners, it does feel like there'* more available power. I need to check the allthread, just to make sure that it hasn't stretched any, but it'* too damn cold here to be working on a car outside.
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