pin pointing new noise
 

My clunking noise is louder than ever. I have a new and improved intermediate shaft I was hoping to eliminate all my low speed noises, guess what still there. I put the car on jack stands on the frame. I had a friend turn the wheel when running, I can feel the clunking in the pass. and driverside spring. I used my stethoscope and could hear a popping/clunking noise mostly in the pass. side spring but also on the drivers side. I also tried to pry with a crow bar at the control arm/ lower ball joint with little movement though there was some. Does anyone know which one is more common or what types of noise would point to which one being the culprit?- Thanks for any help- Ron

My guess is both the upper strut bearings are going toast. The clunk you hear while turning may be related to the bearing binding up. Once the binding is overcome by spring wind-up tension the bearing lets go and you get that pop! If one is going the other is sure to follow. I'd replace both if you narrow it down to the bearings.

Any better ideas out there?

Nope - I was thinking the same thing. We seem to have more of those bearing problems starting to show up. Sounds like the passenger side is worse.

Can you give me a quick idea on how to replace? Do I need to compress the spring with the car sitting on a jack stand on the frame?

<<Do I need to compress the spring with the car sitting on a jack stand>>

You bet. You can rent a spring compressor at some auto parts stores. Be VERY careful. You can break a wrist, or worse, if not very careful. Once you get over the fear of compressing the spring the rest is very easy. The hardest part to compressing the spring is positioning the fingers on the springs so they do not slip off.

Unfortunately, nothing that easy. You'll have to remove the strut from the car, get spring compressors to compress the spring, then take the top mount off.

Edit - In the previous generation Bonnevilles, they've has some luck squirting some oil into the top mount. We don't have the extra room that they do, but you could try and give it a shot.

I thought the strut would come out by just unbolting the three bolts under the hood and the two that pierce the steering knuckle? I was thinking by looking at the strut assembly that the strut limits the lower control arm downward movement.

I guess I should have worded that more clearly. Yes, as you have it listed is how the strut comes out. It comes out as an entire assembly, including the spring and top strut mount, where the bearing is. The spring, is compressed between that mount, and the spring seat on the strut. If you remove that top mount from the assembly without compressing the spring, the spring and mount will come flying off with dangerous, if not deadly, force.

I wanted to try to grease the bearing if possible. My question is can I do this without removing the assembly? I need to buy myself some time before I replace them. I was also wondering if I normally need to replace the the whole bearing plate and all or if I could save some $ and just replace the bearing itself?

You can try to lube the bearing, but I think it will be tough to get to, and it's buried between the strut mount and the spring seat. You should be able to replace the bearing separate from the mount. This is the parts breakdown.
Attachment 43296

Thanks for the pic Archon I get a better idea of the assembly. It looks like I will try and grease it from the top though. I will buy the bearings next week.-Ron

Fixed for now, I took out the pass. side strut and didn't see a vantage point for grease. I was bummed so I put it back together. I decided to try to lube the bearings from the top. I had the wife turn the wheel from left to right in park while I dumped oil into the cup under the top washer on the strut. I took it for a ride and it was about 50% better, I loaded it up again this time I used a lot on both sides its 90-95% better now. It only makes a clunk now on a very hard right turn occasionally. I guess I will see how long this lasts, at that point I may decide to replace the bearings or just lube it again depending on how long it lasts. Thanks again for all the help you guys are life savers.- Ron

Great! Happy to hear that it has improved. Now we know that at least some oil can get it there to settle things down for a while.

The noise came back half way home from traverse city this weekend. I guess Im going to try and replace the bearings tomorrow. I will try to shop around for the best price on them.

Do I need to get a alignment after I replace the bearings?

Yes, anytime the strut is removed from the car, an alignment is needed. If you are reusing the old struts, mark the position of the strut on the strut or steering knuckle. That will get you at least close to the right alignment.

I replaced both bearings this afternoon it went smooth but wasn't as easy as I thought it would be. I had no problems taking them out it was compressing and releasing the spring that was hard. I did notice that they have a blue mark on the spring and the plastic spring seat and on the mount to align when releasing the spring. I just replaced the bearings for $37 a piece at napa, autozone didn't sell the bearing by itself they tried to sell me the mount too @$75. I did hear the infamous grind noise again on a hard left turn. I checked the ps fluid and its quite low I will add fluid and hope the noise goes away. I have no fluid leaks at all though so I have no idea where the fluid went? My low speed clunks are all gone now I have a new found sense of accomplishment this afternoon. Thanks again for the diagram and advice Archon- Ron

I used a turkey baster to remove the fluid at the bottom of the reservoir then replaced the fluid with lucas power steering fluid with rack conditioner. I did a baster removal two more times and I'm now happy with the result. The steering effort is zero and I have no whining noise at all. I had a good bonneville afternoon! I will continue to use lucas and ams products in all my internal combustion items. My 21.5 hp craftsman ltx 1000 hasn't had a oil change in over two summers and has very clean oil with ams oil 12m/36k. I blew up my zx9r with reg. oil and I have been into synthetic fluid since.

Sounds like a nice productive weekend for you! For the power steering, check the high pressure hose crimp fitting right where it enters the rack from under the car on the passenger side. Those have been known to start leaking slowly.