Misfire Assistance (P0300)
#12
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Good call, Tech II. I just did that and the misfiring cylinders misfired remained 1/4. This would lead to the ICM.
My brain must not be working after a long day at work, and a non functioning vehicle...
My brain must not be working after a long day at work, and a non functioning vehicle...
#13
Senior Member
True Car Nut
sounds like the icm is the issue for the poor running to me. i dont really know whats best for your l67. i have used delco and delphi stuff for years but on plugs and wires i have had issues on the last couple sets i have bought for my bonnie and my previous monte carlo. now i normally get bosch single platinum plugs and bosch wires. but those are all NA vehicles and they have come with single platinum so thats what i put back. i still use delco sensors, cap, rotor, or that icm i would get delco. the icm on my bonnie is original and has over 200k
#14
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Wanted to put some closure on this topic:
I received the ICM from RockAuto yesterday (United part information below, cost was $72.79):
"UNITED IGNITION WIRE Part # DCM9607 United Premium OEM replacement Control Module"
Running back to normal. As I go back on this I should have purchased the spark tester first before doing any fuel work (not a big deal, as I needed to replace fuel filter anyway). The $5 kept me from replacing the LIM gaskets (immediately anyway). For that, I can now watch the coolant more closely and decide when/if that still needs to be completed, again.
Thanks for all the input on resolving this issue.
I received the ICM from RockAuto yesterday (United part information below, cost was $72.79):
"UNITED IGNITION WIRE Part # DCM9607 United Premium OEM replacement Control Module"
Running back to normal. As I go back on this I should have purchased the spark tester first before doing any fuel work (not a big deal, as I needed to replace fuel filter anyway). The $5 kept me from replacing the LIM gaskets (immediately anyway). For that, I can now watch the coolant more closely and decide when/if that still needs to be completed, again.
Thanks for all the input on resolving this issue.
The following 2 users liked this post by goeppngr:
jwfirebird (07-15-2014),
Mike (07-15-2014)
#15
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
having the same problem with my sons 2001 bonnie. all coils test good. new plugs and wires. still not burning all the fuel. will stop by harbor freight for spark tester. can you post a picture of spark tester please. thanks
#18
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Not a big fan, With the other tester the bulb gives a good indication if a wire, cap or coil is breaking down while the engine is running. Ive had too many false readings with the one shown above. Case in point atv wouldn't start. My tester showed a very dim bulb while the other showed a fine spark. But everyone has their preference.
Last edited by chevy82; 08-26-2014 at 09:19 PM.
#19
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Let me know if you need anything else.
http://m.harborfreight.com/inline-ignition-spark-checker-69014.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
#20
Senior Member
The reason I like this one(there are two kinds, one with the center post and one without....for HEI, you want the one without.....) is the sound.....there is spark and there is spark.....there is a good healthy spark sound you want to hear....a weak sound or intermittent spark is not good....
I don't use this the conventional way......
I watched a Buick Know How once.....what they did was, similar to your tester.....they added an ignition wire and installed a bolt in the boot coil end of the wire( I have this setup with my tester, handy)......pull wire off the plug, and attach it to ST-125...take the other ignition wire, and attach it to the plug in the engine.....now attach the ST-125 alligator clip to the bolt in the end of the other ignition wire....you are now checking the weakness of that coil through the ST-125 plus the your engine plug gap, and you are not adding fuel to a cylinder that is not firing....
The only drawback to this tester? the spark.....do not let it spark near the battery......if the battery happens to be releasing excessive hydrogen gasses, KABOOM.......saw it happen to someone who didn't use the tester properly.....luckily he did not get hurt.....just lack of common sense.......
I don't use this the conventional way......
I watched a Buick Know How once.....what they did was, similar to your tester.....they added an ignition wire and installed a bolt in the boot coil end of the wire( I have this setup with my tester, handy)......pull wire off the plug, and attach it to ST-125...take the other ignition wire, and attach it to the plug in the engine.....now attach the ST-125 alligator clip to the bolt in the end of the other ignition wire....you are now checking the weakness of that coil through the ST-125 plus the your engine plug gap, and you are not adding fuel to a cylinder that is not firing....
The only drawback to this tester? the spark.....do not let it spark near the battery......if the battery happens to be releasing excessive hydrogen gasses, KABOOM.......saw it happen to someone who didn't use the tester properly.....luckily he did not get hurt.....just lack of common sense.......
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