Hi All,

I find this site and my second post is not a happy one.

I have an 02 SSEi that I bought new!! The car has been flawless for 79K miles. Recently the CAT was rattling and I took it to be replaced. While my friend (who owns the exhaust shop was working) I was making visual inspections. I noticed moisture in the intake area and that the coolant in the overflow was just a bit low. He told me of his wifes Monte and the fact that the UIM/LIM are suspect. The car showed no signs of anything wrong.

Within two weeks I serviced the UIM/LIM gaskets and felt it was obvious they were shot. Repair went like clockwork. I also had to replace vacuum T'* as they were brittle. I used GM replacement intakes and a Fel Pro Upper and O Rings.

After the repair the car ran GREAT....even better than before......one thing I noticed is that prior to the repair the supercharger had a howl to it BUT after the repair it didn't .....I still had all the boost....but virtually none of the howl. Regardless......all seemed fine.....


Fast forward two weeks and my son and I are out running errands. We return home and I hear a knock. I notice that my oil pressure guage is semi erratic. Pressure is low but comes up under load.

When cold the knock isn't present but above idle it is back. Changed oil....no change...not that I really expected it to just "go away".

Seems to be coming from the front of the motor. (pulley side) Pulled both belts today and the knock is still there. I am assuming a rod bearing.......wouldn't think it is the HB,

So now the question......Pull the pan and change the rod bearings?

Look for a long block?

Pray for a miracle?

How difficult is it to pull the pan? Appears that the motor mount on the passenger side also attaches to the pan. Seems I could support the trans and pull those bolts..and the pan bolts..and the pan would drop? Is the seal on O ring?

A mechanic friend thinks I have little to lose by pulling the rod caps and investigating...and changing them as long as the crank journal isn't scored. I believe that it would be hard to imagine that the rod would be knocking with no other damage as a result?

I welcome any comments or advise.

Thanks for the great site.....wish I'd known about it sooner.

I love this car......and have no desire to part with it....up till now it has been a pleasure.

If I wind up rebuilding this....or going with a long block......I want to mod the HELL out of it!! The way I see it there would be little reason NOT to have a bit of fun with it.

Thanks

Chris


2002 SSEi Black (all stock) 81K miles.

These motors are pretty bullet proof. The exception would be based on how much coolant might have gotten into the pan from your leak.

If you have a mechanics stethoscope, or get one there pretty cheap; listen from the top side of the motor to the bottom to try and pin point where the knock is coming from. The lower the noise in the motor, the greater the likelihood that what you suspect may have happen.

Also pull your plugs and check them. You want to look for any noticeable differences in color, sooting or damage.

Well I am currently replacing the engine in my sons 2000 SSEi...it popped the LIM gaskets and filled the engine up with antifreeae last winter...he put another 15K on it since that happened and it has a spun bearing on #2..I already have the engine out and I think it was easier then changing the trans (Ive done that three times)...as for pulling the pan and replacing the bearing...don't waste your time...it is a band aid on a broken bone...if the bearing is loose enough to knock the crank and offending rod need machine work...plus all the metal from both are in your oil system

I would opt for a long block. The 3800 is a picky motor in that when you try to change bearings it wants all the piston rods etc and motor to be align bored. For some odd reason they don't typically accept a bearing change like many other motors would.

Are you rebuilding the original or going the long block route?

I agree about the metal in the motor...but I needed a band aid while I find a new motor.....don't have another vehicle to drive at this point.....

guess it is a time bomb?

Any recommendations for vendor of a long block? Don't think I want a junkyard motor.

I've had great success with JY motors. The one in my Bonneville came to me with 90K on it. It'* putting out around 450ish Hp and running like a champ about 140K on it now.

The motor in my DD Regal had 65K when I got it from a JY. Got about 10K on it and running great.

I was thinking of rebuilding the one I am taking out...haven't pulled the pan yet but I have major play in #2 when I rotate it...heads were reworked last winter...the motor I am putting in has 82K on it and I paid 550.00 complete

Interesting.....just did a search on car-parts and found one out of a buick with 55K on it for $1250. This seems like a deal if it presents well.

NOW....what mods can I easily do....before putting it in?

Not too interesed in rockers and springs....though I know I can do that without yanking the heads.

do all mods (like the underdrive pully require the PCM reflash?

I just want to be able to dust my buddies 99 GS Buick that has the same motor...but is lighter and as such quicker.......not sure what gear they came with.....but his has a performance shift button on the shifter.

Last....any data on how the PCM flash and basic mods affect mileage?

Thanks

C

The GS and SSEi have the same 2.93 gear ratio. You could get a smaller puley fort the */c, a fenderwell intake from intense would help. That'* just a start. Speed is money, how fast do you want to go?

Just a little faster than him!!!

I surmise with the pulley and cold air to start....i will see an improvement.

first things first......another motor.

Thanks

Chris