Gents,

I've been reading and reading and reading and it seems there'* no one definite fix for the shakes. 02 Bonneville ssei, 190K... But this morning it was BAD! I mean bad to the point where the speedo needle was starting to twerk. I even felt it in the steering column this time.

Here'* another symptom: If I put it in park, the whole car can roll about 4 inches forward/backward before it stops. Doesn't always happen, but it can.

I want to just throw two new CV axles in there and call it a day. Problem is, if that doesn't fix it, I'm at a loss.

Suggestions anyone?

Parking pawl appears to be engaging as it should be. As long as there is no excessive wear in it or the gear, 4 inches appears exaggerated. A couple inches is normal travel for the pawl to fall into its resting spot. This is normal.

I suggest NOT just throwing parts at it if you have zero experience in diagnosing cars. Save us and yourself the headache of not playing guessing games and take it to a shop. They can probably find it pretty quick if its that bad.

*Ahem*... Ok that last post sounded a bit frantic.

Let me be clear: I've got plenty of wrenches to turn, and I use them regularly. I just don't see the problem with this particular vehicle. So the whole 4 inches of play was an exaggeration, but if the CV axles are actually the problem, wouldn't there be enough play in them to allow the vehicle to roll forward/backward - just a bit - even in park? There'* plenty of rotational slop in both wheels while on jackstands. That'* where that comment came from.

That'* not the main issue, though. Gotta figure out this front end shaking. Since this is accompanied by popping noises while turning, that tells me CV axles. I mentioned in a different thread that the TRAC and ABS lights are on. That points to a wheel speed sensor. Ok well my new scanner says LF wheel hub. I'm inclined to believe it.

Further details would have helped.

With vehicle on ground, reach in and grab both CV shafts. If play is found, obviously replace as needed.

Hub bearings are common failures that develop enough play to cause the tone ring to no longer be close to the ABS sensor.

Alright, so would either one of those cause ridiculous vibration and noise when bad?

Also, I don't believe I've mentioned that the OBDII reader I have is one that I bought per advice from this forums. I don't remember who suggested it ATM, however, it can read pesky ABS codes. That'* why I spent the money lol. That'* also why I'm leaning towards the wheel hub being bad. We'll see.

If the hub bearing is going out, you will typically have a droning/grinding noise while driving. CV shafts will have a clicking type of noise while making turns only.

Yes, it was me that recommended the ABS scan tool. Which one did you get?

Innova 5210 or something like that. I don't have it right in front of me but that'* pretty close to what it looks like. My previous OBDII reader has to be told what vehicle it'* plugged into. The new one tells me everything lol.

That is a better one to have.

What code(*)? Wheel Speed sensor code. There'* not really a code that says 'hub' that I know of.

My code reader has two modes: OBDII and ABS. In ABS mode, it reads ... well... ABS errors. In this instance, it specified the Left Front wheel speed sensor. Only one way to replace that.

Next, to stay On Topic, I was filling up the tank today and gave the left rear tire a good hard push, @ the 12 o'clock position, with my foot. Seemed to be an awful lot of movement down there (as if the LCA bushings are bad). Whatever, I can fix that. So, when I got home, I left the car on the ground and grabbed the rear passenger tire @ the same position and shook it back and forth. Feels almost like the lug nuts are loose - but they clearly are NOT!

So there'* some food for thought.