How do you remove the original pulley without breaking the tensioner?
When I try to loosen the bolt, the tensioner swings all the way to the slack position and I even put a cheater extension on the rachet handle but it wouldn't budge. I am afraid to really reef on it for fear of breaking the tensioner.
Do you have to remove the tensioner completely to remove the pulley??

I'm not sure about your model, but try going the other way. I've seen some of them have "left hand thread" so the tensioner doesn't loosen the bolt.

You do not have to remove the tensioner completely. All you have to do is loosen the bolt on the tensioner. It is a regular bolt with regular threads, they are not backwards, and you just turn it left and it will losen. You will not break the tensioner if you are turning the bolt the correct way. If you cannot get it to come off, the only thing I can suggest is to remove the whole tensioner.

But, what I really want to know is why you need an oversized tensioner. If I am correct you are running a 3.4" Pulley. Since you are running a 3.4" Pulley all you have to do is go to an autoparts store and buy a gatorback 4060715 gatorback belt and it will fit great, at first it will fit very tightly and you will have to put it over either the tensioner or flat idler first because it won't fit over the ribs, but it will stretch out after about 50-100 miles and fit perfect. Then you will get no belt slip, if you are getting any now, which would be odd. We don't get any even in the GTP.

I bought the pulley before I bought the shorter belt that I am now running, so I have the pulley shelved...for now. But when I make my exhaust mods, I will go with the 3.25" pulley, so I may need the pulley then to stay with the same belt.
Hate to waste a new pulley....and it would be nicer to stay with a stock belt since the shorter one is harder to find here in Canuk land.