Got my engine apart and have questions.
#1
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Got my engine apart and have questions.
First Question:
Where is the coolant drain plug located on the 3800 series engine. Does anyone have a DIY for a coolant flush?
Second Question:
When I was taking the intake manifold off to replace the Upper & Lower intake gaskets I broke what looks to be where the oil is drained. I guess I have no idea how it goes on or off. I have pictures of it does anyone know the part number, how to replace it, and about how much it will cost.
Where is the coolant drain plug located on the 3800 series engine. Does anyone have a DIY for a coolant flush?
Second Question:
When I was taking the intake manifold off to replace the Upper & Lower intake gaskets I broke what looks to be where the oil is drained. I guess I have no idea how it goes on or off. I have pictures of it does anyone know the part number, how to replace it, and about how much it will cost.
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
The coolant drain is on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side.
The picture is the upper coolant elbow. They run about $7 to $9 and you can get them at the dealer and most auto stores. There should be an "O" ring on both ends of it. Check the holes where the elbow connects and retrieve them as well as what broken pieces are left.
The picture is the upper coolant elbow. They run about $7 to $9 and you can get them at the dealer and most auto stores. There should be an "O" ring on both ends of it. Check the holes where the elbow connects and retrieve them as well as what broken pieces are left.
#3
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The coolant drain is on the bottom of the radiator on the drivers side.
The picture is the upper coolant elbow. They run about $7 to $9 and you can get them at the dealer and most auto stores. There should be an "O" ring on both ends of it. Check the holes where the elbow connects and retrieve them as well as what broken pieces are left.
The picture is the upper coolant elbow. They run about $7 to $9 and you can get them at the dealer and most auto stores. There should be an "O" ring on both ends of it. Check the holes where the elbow connects and retrieve them as well as what broken pieces are left.
Does the coolant drain on the radiator also drain all of the coolant in the block? With my BMW anyways, (The coolant systems are terrible in Bimmers), there was a drain plug on the block as well as the radiator drain plug. Is there any special way of bleeding the system or is it just as simple as filling the resivor with coolant/water and letting it circulate and self bleed?
#4
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True Car Nut
The radiator drain will get most of it out and the factory Service Manual doesn't list any block drains.
On top of the T-Stat housing there is a bleeder valve. Open that just prior to filling the system. Fill the system, put the pressure cap back on. Warm the motor up to where the lower radiator hose is warm, then close off the bleeder valve. Throttle the engine up to about 3000 rpm, and slowly open the bleeder valve and hold open for 10 to 15 seconds - do this four or five times, then close the bleeder valve. Let everything cool down and then fill the reservoir to the cold line if needed.
On top of the T-Stat housing there is a bleeder valve. Open that just prior to filling the system. Fill the system, put the pressure cap back on. Warm the motor up to where the lower radiator hose is warm, then close off the bleeder valve. Throttle the engine up to about 3000 rpm, and slowly open the bleeder valve and hold open for 10 to 15 seconds - do this four or five times, then close the bleeder valve. Let everything cool down and then fill the reservoir to the cold line if needed.
#6
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Instead of picking one elbow for $7, your local parts places should have or be able to get the elbows for you.
Dorman part# 47065 usually priced ~$4 for both upper and lower elbows. Remember to remove the piece of the old one from either the tensioner or LIM where it broke off.
On the drain, there is a plug in the block, I forget where though. There'* a spare block on the floor at my place if you can wait until tonight for an answer on that. The drain in the radiator is a little interesting on the 2000+ as it is accessed from the front of the car not inside the engine bay where conventional ones were located.
Dorman part# 47065 usually priced ~$4 for both upper and lower elbows. Remember to remove the piece of the old one from either the tensioner or LIM where it broke off.
On the drain, there is a plug in the block, I forget where though. There'* a spare block on the floor at my place if you can wait until tonight for an answer on that. The drain in the radiator is a little interesting on the 2000+ as it is accessed from the front of the car not inside the engine bay where conventional ones were located.
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Instead of picking one elbow for $7, your local parts places should have or be able to get the elbows for you.
Dorman part# 47065 usually priced ~$4 for both upper and lower elbows. Remember to remove the piece of the old one from either the tensioner or LIM where it broke off.
On the drain, there is a plug in the block, I forget where though. There'* a spare block on the floor at my place if you can wait until tonight for an answer on that. The drain in the radiator is a little interesting on the 2000+ as it is accessed from the front of the car not inside the engine bay where conventional ones were located.
Dorman part# 47065 usually priced ~$4 for both upper and lower elbows. Remember to remove the piece of the old one from either the tensioner or LIM where it broke off.
On the drain, there is a plug in the block, I forget where though. There'* a spare block on the floor at my place if you can wait until tonight for an answer on that. The drain in the radiator is a little interesting on the 2000+ as it is accessed from the front of the car not inside the engine bay where conventional ones were located.
Gotcha, perfect.
#10
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Nah,
In the gasket you should see a couple clips up the middle. The tube goes backwards to how you have it. The curled end of the tube pokes up into the UIM toward the sky if it were on the car at the MAP sensor or alternator end of the manifold. This puts the rest of the tube laying in those clips on the gasket. The gasket also clips to the upper manifold.
BTW.. keep in mind that if you are removing the LIM, the are two bolts hidden in the oily gunk of the lower manifold. Front driverside corner and rear passengerside corner .....INSIDE.....the lower manifold.
You can kinda see it in this picture.
And here on the upper left by the alternator bracket you can see one of the bolts inside the LIM.
In the gasket you should see a couple clips up the middle. The tube goes backwards to how you have it. The curled end of the tube pokes up into the UIM toward the sky if it were on the car at the MAP sensor or alternator end of the manifold. This puts the rest of the tube laying in those clips on the gasket. The gasket also clips to the upper manifold.
BTW.. keep in mind that if you are removing the LIM, the are two bolts hidden in the oily gunk of the lower manifold. Front driverside corner and rear passengerside corner .....INSIDE.....the lower manifold.
You can kinda see it in this picture.
And here on the upper left by the alternator bracket you can see one of the bolts inside the LIM.