I need to replace a leaky oil pan gasket on the 2004 LeSabre

I searched and came across this excellent post about dealing with the nutty engine mount bracket that'* ATTACHED TO THE OIL PAN
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=74712

Here are my questions:
1) When I remove the mount bracket, I plan to support the motor with a jackstand under the A/C bracket and a jackstand under the differential cover. Anyone see any potential issues with this?
2) Anyone got torque specs on the nut that attaches the bracket to the block (near the PS pump) and for the bolts that attach the bracket to the oil pan?
(I looked in techinfo, but couldn't tell from the descriptions which--if any--of the listed specs were the ones I'm interested in...maybe someone with an 00+ FSM can help me out)

Thanks.

Perhaps this will help...
Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right
Engine Mount Replacement - Right

mine leaking also only if i do a long trip there a few drop going on the cat and i smell oil when i stop .i also have the mount on the oil pan .if you do yours andrew take some pict .Is think this a problem on series 2 3800

Don,

I would have photo-documented, but the camera was unavailable. Total job took about 3 hours (though I could probably do it in 90 minutes now).

Your Regal'* a '98, right? Does it have the cast aluminum pan and wacky bracket?

Some tips (at least, things I found on the 2004 LeSabre H-body):

-I used a single jackstand with a short piece of 4x6 under the tranny pan...this was enough support. You will need a good floor jack to raise and lower the engine, though.

-I did not go as far as total removal of the engine mount bracket...and couldn't have if I'd wanted, because I don't have the right female torx bit for the engine block stud at the top of the bracket, and that bracket wasn't coming completely out of the engine bay without removing that stud. After removing the two bolts into the pan at the bottom of the bracket (15mm or 5/8" wrench), the nut holding onto the stud at the block (deep socket; 15mm or 5/8"), and the big nut holding to the mount (deep socket; 13/16" or 21mm), the bracket had enough movement that I could move it out of the way of the three oil pan bolts it blocks with a pry bar (the bracket was still resting on the long, large bolt coming down out of the mount, but the mount had enough play to allow the prying)

-The oil level sensor pulls straight out after being unscrewed...no interference with the windage tray like on the oil pan I pulled off the '98 engine a few months ago.

-The cast aluminum pan may have sprue, casting flaws, etc in the mating surface of the pan...I had to grind down a sharp point or two in this flange. Also, check the flange for flatness with a straightedge.

-The gasket is just like the valve cover gaskets...it fits into a groove in the oil pan. The old gasket was broken at 4 of the bolt holes...clearly a weak spot. After cleaning out the gasket groove in the pan really well and installing the new gasket, run a fairly thick bead of copper or black RTV around the entire pan flange, just inside the gasket (i.e., to the oil pan'* reservoir side).

-I found that the lower bracket bolts (into the pan) were so close to the frame, that I could not get a torque wrench (or even a socket) on them...I used red threadlocker, a 15mm wrench, and just muscled them until they were very tight. The big nut on the engine mount was accessible through a hole cast in the control arm...I did not need to remove the wheel or the plastic wheelwell insert to access that.

Again, this was on an H-body...I don't know if you'll have the same issues on your Regal.

well thank you i will have a closer look of mine it still not leaking that bad but i know that it a futur maitenance i will need to do soon