Hey guys, got a question... I think it'* my wheel bearings, but figured I'd post to see if you all agree/disagree with me...

I'm getting a grinding noise when driving. It sounds something like when you blow into a plastic straw (somewhat like metal on metal - dry sliding sound). Hard to describe, at best.

At speeds under about, say, 10-15, don't hear it. Get up higher, and I do. Steering the wheel either direction doesn't make it worse or better. It doesn't change frequency/pitch with motor RPM'*, just with wheel RPM'*. There is no noise at idle. It sounds like it is coming from the front end.

I first noticed a slight sound maybe a week ago, but sounds a bit louder now. Car has no other symptoms, still drives/rides the same.

Does this sound like the wheel bearings? Or maybe something else?

Any ideas on a cost to replace the bearings? I'm assuming probably about $600-700.

Any input would be appreciated! Thanks a ton.

it *could* be your pads dragging on your rotor. bearings is possible, but to check, jack up the front end, and spin each wheel and listen carefully, you should be able to differentiate.

Sounds like wheel bearing to me.If it is the tough part sometimes is figuring what side.

Josh. Your description describes a little bit of both brakes and bearing. Brakes usually cause the metal type grinding sound you mention, while bearings more of a moan, groan, or rubbing sound. Generally, the brakes will make the noise while stopping, but if the slides or caliper is stuck, it could happen as you describe.

I'd start with the brakes, as they're easier and cheaper. Do as the first John mentioned..put the car on jack stands, pull the wheels, and inspect the pads (both inside and outside pads). If necessary, pull the caliper to get a good look.

If not the brakes, it very well could be the bearing, and as the second John to answer mentioned, it can be hard to tell which one - in particular on the 2000+ models. Unless you're really short on cash, it would be a good idea to replace both anyway, as one will often follow the other, within a year or two.

Hard to say on the cost, as it will depend on where you take it. With the dealer, you'll probably be a bit low on your estimate. At a service shop, you're a bit high. If you do it yourself - it'* a lot cheaper.

Wheel bearings are around $150 per side or a little less depending on where you buy them from. Labor should be no more than 30 minutes. Best way to find out which side is going bad is to jack up the front wheels and wiggle the wheel from top to bottom. If there'* play, then wheel bearings are bad, no play means everything is tight. Make sure to check both sides, driver and passenger wheels. If you wiggle the wheel from side to side and there'* play, then check the tie-rods and ball joints. When i did my wheel bearings, i also had a tie-rod end that was loose. So i had it all replaced at the same time.

Thanks for the great answers!

Good points about the brakes. The more I think about it, I'm starting to lean towards brakes as well. Reason being, an ex had a bearing go on her Mirage. That was more of a drone sound that you could hear in the car with the windows closed. It got louder the faster she drove.

This is more of a hissing/scraping sound, and you don't hear anything with the windows closed. That is the only time I hear it is if I'm driving with the windows down. It doesn't get louder with speed.

When I do press the brakes, the sound the pads make is similar to the sound it makes. I can still hear the sound with the brakes depressed though.

I will see if I can make a video (and see if my camera can pick up the sound). That will probably help.

If you do discover it is the brakes dragging, its going to be for one of three reasons. Brake hose collapsed, slider pins aren't adequately greased, or the piston is not retracting. To check, when you remove the wheel, have someone press the brake and watch the caliper movement very carefully. When the brake is released, turn the rotor and watch from the top of the caliper, so that both pads are in view. If the outboard pad is scraping, and not the inboard at all, then its most likely the slider pins just need greasing. If its the inboard pad scraping, or both, take the caliper off, and try to compress the piston with the bleeder open. Once you've compressed it, and greased the pins, then put the caliper back on, and ensure it slides freely on the pins. Then have someone press the pedal again, if still dragging, then its most likely going to be that your brake hose has collapsed internally and should be replaced.