Electrical Problem
 

Anybody have any idea what would knock out ignition and headlights/ driving lights on a 2000 SSEi? That's where I am now. I've checked all fuses, and they are all OK. Battery is OK. Radio and all power stuff works fine. Ignition system and headlights are just dead.

Help!

UPDATE: The problem seems to be with the front fuse panel. i have power coming in...but nothing going out. Is this panel tied into the ignition switch? The Auto Zone guy suggested that the ignition switch may have gone bad.

That's a new one to me. Did you find ALL the fuses? I don't know why they don't out them all in the same place. Were you working on something and unknowingly cut some wiring, etc? Could it be a security thing? Just guessing.

I think I found all of the fuses...under the hood and under the seat. Are there any more that are in secret places?

I plugged a small DC TV into the rear power outlet and popped what I thought was a fuse.The car has been dead ever since.

The power outlets, horn, front lights, and ignition are all out. Everything else seems to work.

Do you have power ( batt +12vdc) at the underhood fuse block? There is a #6 AWG black lead that brings power from the battery up to the underhood fuse block. Check with a voltmeter at the jump start terminal (under square red cap) for power. If you have power at the jump start terminal, remove the horn fuse and check for power on the supply side of the fuse socket. Establish that you have power available up there underhood. There are many variables & possibilities, trying to start with some basics. From what location did you hear the pop when plugging tv into rear outlet? With the info you posted it appears that there is no power at the front end. Try to post a few more details if you can.

I thought the pop came from the rear fuse panel, but its hard to say.

Thanks for the suggestion to check power to the front panel. I have power coming in to the front, but nothing going out.

This is a tough one,
after reading several schematics I would be suspicious of the dash integration module.
This controls many things including the retained accessory power and would seem like you have damged the class 2 communication data link?
You really need a scanner to check for DTC's, can you get a scanner?
It could be something simple like an open ground but will be tough to isolate without codes.

The car's in the shop now. They believe the problem lies in the theft deterrent module.

Keep us posted.
The dash integration module is tied with many modules depending on trim and options, the fact the headlights dont work leads me into there coupled with the ignition?

Maybe my guess was correct.

I had started to think it might be a security issue too b4 I gave up and towed the car. I was hoping for a "secret" way for the dealer to quickly (and cheaply) reset the theft deterrent system, but I guess that isn't going to happen. They still haven't quite figured it out yet, but they tell me that something is killing the power to half of the front fuse panel. I'm pretty sure this is going to hurt! ...stay tuned.

Extended warranties are your friend :)

Hope its a cheap fix...

That's kind of ambiguous what the dealership said. :) :?: If the IGN 1 relay is failed, or not picking up for whatever reason, then quite a few components( ie.Start2 Relay, Fuel Injectors, PCM ignition, etc) will not receive the B+ power from the IGN 1 bus. The IGN 1 relay (underhood) should pick up with the ignition switch in "on", and there should be no inhibits. Any "start" inhibit features I think take place at the PCM level as it communicates with other modules (ie. Theft Deterrent Module, or Dash Integration Module etc.) for validation to enable the start sequence. I'll be anxious to see what they find. Hope it's not too costly.

Well, here's the final chapter to the story.

Fortunately for me, the dealer's initial diagnosis was wrong. As it turns out, the problem was not in the theft deterrent module, but was in the front fuse panel.

I had popped an accessory power outlet fuse recently. When I opened the front fuse panel, there was an inside plastic cover marked "remove and discard" held down by three bolts. Apparently, this was the first time the panel had ever been accessed, so I loosened the bolts, removed the inner plastic cover, and replaced the fuse.

I thought the three bolts were there just to hold that retaining cover down, so I didn't tighten them back down. As it turns out, they also hold the fuse panel together. So, what happened is that the two halves of the fuse panel came apart, and killed power to half of the circuits. The tech tightened the bolts back down, and full power was restored.

I had to pay for a few hours of labor to diagnose and fix the problem. I feel kind of dumb for causing the problem, but I don't recall seeing anything in the book about reinstalling those bolts after discarding the inner cover. Maybe I'll write Pontiac and see what happens.

Thanks for the update, so what was the loud pop anyways? Funny how the problem didnt arise until you plugged in the tv and yet the power for the accessory outlet comes from the rear fuse panel and not the front?

arcing across the two halves?

I did find a blown fuse in the front panel. I don't remember the number (22 or 23 maybe???), but it was for accessory power or something like that. It was on the acc outlet circuit, as there is an option to have the fuse in one position to have the acc power outlets stay hot all the time, and another (default) for them to turn off after a few minutes.

The noise in the rear could have just been the relays clicking...I dunno.

Anyway, problem solved. Now, on to the next one!

The control relay is in the rear for the cig lighter and aux outlet, it then feeds the two 20amp fuses under the hood.
Also the front fuse block has the 3 retaining screws and 4 cam locks, those locks must have held on for a while after you removed the screws.

Wow, that was it? :) Good deal, glad to see you got that resolved. I've always just put that inner cover back in place. It snaps over the heads of the three fasteners that hold the fuse block in place. I've never loosened the fasteners to remove or replace the inner cover. As far as discarding that cover, I never understood that, I just figured it doesn't seem to hurt leaving the thing in there.