Yup, mine is on the way out.
Thankfully the dealer has it on order as a warranty replacement.

They did the lube fix two years ago and now it has started to act up again so....

What exactly are the symptoms of this? I haven't noticed any problems with the steering on our SSEi except it very slightly leaks ps fluid. (and I mean VERY slightly, it doesn't start making noise due to low power steering fluid for ~60k miles since the last time we topped it off) At about 70k it started making noise so we topped off the PS fluid, and checked it regularly for like the next month and it didn't seem to be losing any so we forgot about it. A month or so ago, at about 134k miles, it started making a noise again, and sure enough it was low. So it leaks, just really really slow.

Shawn

Driving at low speed....about 10 - 20 mph....crank the steering wheel right and left. If you feel or hear a clunk, that'* it.

On mine, the symptoms were a very noticeable "clunking" sound and feel on the wheel when in a slight turn over small bumps. It felt like somethings was serious loose, and about to fall out onto the road.

-actually, the Impala Headquarters website describes it very well.

I'm not about to let it get that bad....besides, I only have a year left on my 6 year warranty and you can see how low my mileage is in my sig.

I had the Intermediate steering shaft replaced a couple months ago.
The small single clunk when turning the steering wheel quickly left or right, only at speeds above 15 mph is still there. You can feel it but not hear it :(
I took it back to the dealer and had the service manager drive it to show him the irritating problem. He was not optimistic that they would be able to find out what the problem really is.
I have an appointment next week for them to look at it more closely.

Any one have any ideas :?:

I had the same thing happening to my 2001 SLE and today i got pissed off with this clicking sound and went ahead and took the shaft out and put some heavy bearing grease and the clicking sound is gone.. I could not believe the difference..

Total time spend on the repair: 2 hours
Dollars spend = 0

Even if the clicking sound comes back after a while it is pretty easy to remove it and lubricate it again...

Next project: Fixing my heated seats

Ckeck out this link for more info what needs to be done and DO NOT BUY A NEW SHAFT. Old one needs to be lubricated..

http://www.impalahq.com
and then click on the News/TSB and scroll down to the 01-02-32 article

alright... sounds/looks easy...... where exectly is that part? inside or outside of the car... sorry im new to this whole thing of repairing my car. 6.00bucks isnt bad for the lube kit. but all i really need is just some bearing gease?!?!?! and what could i use for the pushing it back together?

This shaft connects your steering wheel shaft with the steering box and that is why it is called intermediate shaft.. One half of the shaft is located under the dash and the other half under the hood..

This is what someone else wrote and i followed the same procedure:

- Make sure the front wheels are pointed straight forward before starting.

- Start the shaft removal by going under the hood and look for the neoprene boot that encloses the actual secondary shaft. It should be a clear rubber boot located under the brake master cylinder (very low down) and will appear to be connected or covering the point of entry into the steering arm.

- Pull the lower part of the boot up to expose the lower part of the arm where it attaches to the steering gear system. You will see a bolt that attaches the lower part of the secondary shaft. Unbolt it and set the bolt aside.

- Pull up on the shaft end to compress it and clear the attachment point. (This is just like one would do to compress a shock absorber)

-
Next go inside the car on the drivers side floor and remove the two screws that hold the plastic shield that covers the underside of the dash.

- Lay on your back and look up above the safety brake lever and located the upper shaft rubber boot that seals the upper shaft connection point to the steering wheel. My boot was a solid black rubber type.

- Pull the end of the boot closest to the firewall back to expose the connection point. If it is difficult to do so take a razor blade and make a few slices in the end of the boot (I'd suggest from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock position) to allow you to better insert the socket wrench you will need to free the bolt). The actual cuts need to be about two inches long.

- The bolt and retainer clip you will need to remove to pull the secondary shaft out of the car will be difficult to remove as you are now viewing it with the rubber boot opened.

- Take your free hand and move the steering wheel from its normal resting-straight ahead position and turn it one way or the other until the bolt is easy to affix with the socket or wrench.

- Remove the bolt and the retaining clip and set aside. Before you now get out of this awkward position notice that the shaft end is tapered where the bolt affixes it to the upper steering shaft. The two ends need to be matched up in this manner whe you go to re-install the shaft after pulling it out of the car.

-
Now go back under the hood and pull the secondary shaft out of the car. It will be a little hard but you will get it eventually-make sure you re-install the shaft from under the hood and re-assembled the entire piece in the exact opposite manner as you have removed it. The important thing is to not reconnect the under hood bolt until the very last so that you can re-align the steering wheel on the inside of the car one the inside bolt was secured as described above.

-
Once the shaft is out flex the two universal joints. If they are stiff-as mine was-use WD-40 or similar to spray lubricate them and work the joints as the stuff penetrates each part of the joint.

- Clean and then take a small pen knife or razor blade to force bearing lubricant in each part of the joint-working the joints periodically to force as much grease in them as possible. Once you feel the joints are as free as possible move onto the actual lubricant of the arm.

- Pull the end out as you would a shock absorber and either add more silicon grease or the axel bearing grease until you feel there is enough in the shaft to ensure proper lubrication.

- Clean up excess and re-install the secondary joint back in the car starting at the under hood point. Follow the exact refers steps outlined above for the removal of the item.

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One final note-make sure both boots are reinstalled properly or you will not keep the floor area of the drivers side comfortable. Use duct tape if needed after the inner boot is installed if you had to cut the boot as mine was.
Good luck all you shade tree mechanics!

- Remember to use WD 40 or similar on the non greased us joints and then use axel bearing grease on the actual u joints as well as the actual steering shaft. Work the gease into the u joints until it feels smooth to you when you flex each u joint. Good luck

wow............................................... .thanks! doesnt sound like fun!!!!