Ok, so the middle of 2010 my MAF sensor went bad and I replaced it. Now, my car has been running very oddly, and similar to how it ran when the MAF sensor went bad the first time. Hard crank, sometimes dying while driving, sometimes a very serious stutter in the engine while running.

Took it and had the code read, and a P0102 code came up. MAF Circuit Low Input.

How likely is it that the MAF sensor could have gone bad again so quickly? I'm going to go check the connection and make sure the wires are good, clean it up real good, and make sure my CAI isn't leaking near the MAF.

Is my failing UIM/LIM at fault for this at all or no? Any other possible fixes?

Just because it is new, does not exempt it from early failure.

Does your air filter require oil? Oil from an air filter can cause issues with MAF'*.

Haven't oiled the filter since it'* been put on in 2010.

Might have found it. Lets hope. The rubber boot connecting the engine to the CAI tube was loose, looks to be allowing air in/out in a weird. Gonna tighten it down and see what happens.

Usually when a MAF is cleaned, results can be pretty noticeable. But, if the symptoms still persist, then its either going to be a bad MAF, or a vacuum leak downstream of the sensor.

It is possible to test a MAF sensor in car, but results won't be as good as watching the g/ps on a scantool.

I don't have a scantool, nor do I have the money for one. :(

Wires look good. Tightening the boot around the CAI didn't help, the code just reset itself.

I'll have to head to O'Reilly or whomever and pick up some security torx and a can of MAF cleaner. See what happens then.

I don't hear any vacuum leaks, but I can check things you tell me to check.

Did you say the code went away? As in, the CEL went out? That seems to be an intermittent issue. But, it seems to quick. See, when a sensor sets of the CEL, that particular sensor has to fail X number of times before it will set it off. Then, the PCM needs to see it working X number of times before the light will clear out. Each sensor is different.
Some sensors will fail once and set the light off. Others, more.

To test for vacuum leaks around the intake/UIM/LIM area, just spray carb cleaner around the sealing areas while the engine is running. If the engine rpm changes, you found a vac leak.

Here is a link that shows how to test your MAF if you have a multimeter, if you have one that can read hertz then that is even better.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_ma...tic_test_1.php


If you have a laptop and about 30.00 I could help ya find a cheap way to allow checking/clearing codes, you'd use along with a ELM327 Bluetooth dongle, you would be able to read codes, and clear codes, as well as log some data.
The ELM327 is not the fastest IC from what I've learned, but it will be fastest enough for your needs, if you know how to work on circuit boards then you could swap out the ELM327 for the better/faster STN1110 IC, it is a little over my skill level personally, so I just use the ELM 327 that I got here, it is on sale for around 20.00 now.

Wait, forgot if you do have a laptop with a USB port then you can save a few bucks and get the wired ELM327

Both actually come with a few basic free programs, they work, but have no fancy GUI'*, not that those are necessary..

Awesome. Thanks for the links. I don't have a multimeter, but I plan on picking one up.

O'Reilly cleared the code for me when they read it, but it came back as soon as I started the car back up once I got home. It stayed for the drive home though. I need to pick up some security torx bits to pull the MAF out and look at it/clean it. I'm gonna be pissed if I look at it and there are some broken wires.

You're very welcome MouSe, hope ya get it figured out soon!