Front stabilizer bar links snapped on both sides
#1
Retired Administrator
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Front stabilizer bar links snapped on both sides
The oil pressure sensor has been going crazy lately, going for 90 to 0 back and forth, even though I replaced the sensor last year with a OEM.....
Jacked up the front end and removed the tire to inspect the sensor, and I found that my front stabilizer bar link was not connected. Did a quick check on the front left and it also was not connected.
This answered a issue I had a few weeks ago driving on the interstate and moved lanes while accelerating and felt like the Bonny was going to spin.
Found the parts on RockAuto (Moog K8989) and will replace the links later in the week. will be driving the Bravada until then.
Jacked up the front end and removed the tire to inspect the sensor, and I found that my front stabilizer bar link was not connected. Did a quick check on the front left and it also was not connected.
This answered a issue I had a few weeks ago driving on the interstate and moved lanes while accelerating and felt like the Bonny was going to spin.
Found the parts on RockAuto (Moog K8989) and will replace the links later in the week. will be driving the Bravada until then.
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
seems fairly common in rust belt,the one in my bonnie rusted through, you could tell though because it was making a banging noise. i replaced both
#3
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Yep seen lots of those break in this part of the continent! Water gets down and eats the bolt away. All the ones I've changed have had 2 in the kit so you can change both at the same time. If one broke chances are the other one is gonna break soon.
#4
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True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Went to replace these with the MOOG heavy duty replacement kit last night. Could not compress the bushings enough to start the nut on the bolt. It was easier to replace the struts....
Will try to find a way to compress the bushings tonight. If I can't do it, I will revert back to the regular duty replacement. While the front end was on jack stands, I noticed my right outer tie rod was in bad shape. Went to remove it and the nut was rusted to the bolt and no threads. Had to sawzall off the nut, and went ahead and did the same to the left side.
Will try to find a way to compress the bushings tonight. If I can't do it, I will revert back to the regular duty replacement. While the front end was on jack stands, I noticed my right outer tie rod was in bad shape. Went to remove it and the nut was rusted to the bolt and no threads. Had to sawzall off the nut, and went ahead and did the same to the left side.
#5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
sometimes to get the end links you have to jack up the control arm and sorta play with the angles with the jack and that will get you the extra
#6
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True Car Nut
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Thanks Justin, tried that last night, but had no lights, will try again tomorrow with some lighting. All the research I read was this job was a piece of cake, I have found it not so. I had to cut out the old broken bar links, and now have a hassle putting in the replacements. It appears easy once one learns the tricks of it.
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I have to replace mine as well. The drivers side is bent, but not broken.
I don't think I bought the HD ones, as mine are the black rubber and not the blue poly style. Gonna do it tomorrow in my suspension class.
I don't think I bought the HD ones, as mine are the black rubber and not the blue poly style. Gonna do it tomorrow in my suspension class.
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Got it done tonight.
Drivers side was snapped, easy removal. Passenger side was a bear as everything was all seized up. Once it was out, saw it was nice and bent. Only a matter of time before it would have broken too.
Putting the new ones in sucked. Took 3 of us using a giant prybar to squish the swaybar down enough plus a pair of channel locks holding it from the bottom so I could start the nut. Passenger side was easy money. Used the air ratchet to tighten them down and we're good to go.
Drivers side was snapped, easy removal. Passenger side was a bear as everything was all seized up. Once it was out, saw it was nice and bent. Only a matter of time before it would have broken too.
Putting the new ones in sucked. Took 3 of us using a giant prybar to squish the swaybar down enough plus a pair of channel locks holding it from the bottom so I could start the nut. Passenger side was easy money. Used the air ratchet to tighten them down and we're good to go.
#10
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True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Good job Mouse.
I got mine on tonight also. I took a deep 14mm socket and put it on the lower bolt. Put a floor jack under the socket and jacked up. It provided enough pressure to start the threads.
I got mine on tonight also. I took a deep 14mm socket and put it on the lower bolt. Put a floor jack under the socket and jacked up. It provided enough pressure to start the threads.