Help need to save my bonnie
#1
Help need to save my bonnie
so were to start my problem seems like it might be linked with a crime stopper Car alarm i had "professionally " installed
my car was running drive accelerate to high speeds but only if i was light on the throttle if i stepped on it at all it would hesitate then bog then let off and give it half throttle it will go into over drive and accelerate but poorly and without much power behind it
then on occasion (once every week or 2 seems maybe when i get gas) i would go fill up my gas start my car and drive and it would drive as stated above but the next time id shut off my car if usually wouldn't start i would turn it over it would start run like it had bad MAF bog and studder and put when idling and when giving lots of throttle it backfires into the baffles
if i dont give it any gas it will stall and not start if i can pump the gas for a few minute sometimes it stay running and corrects itself
if it stalls i try to turn it over and it goes ( pop pop ) and then just cranks over as if it had no fuel then id leave it for a minute or to try it get a ( pop pop ) then just cranking
thought there might be a short because the ( Driver Information Lamp Monitor )screen went blank not light but the rest of the gauge cluster had light and even the digital compass had back light and the light under the hood for servicing motor goes out as well
and if i can keep the car running for a few minute the monitor would come back on and the hood light came back on and the car started running as first stated
so i checked the engine codes
got 21 and 34
all throttle body sensors manifold senors
so changed TPS no more code 21
cleaned throttle body and all MAF changed throttle body gasket
idel air sensor seemed in good shape
checked code still had them removed car alarm
checked coded codes GONE
Car Running a bit better hasn't not started yet ( knock on wood )
but still bogs and hesitates
So it to it To GM lol
paid for the $100 diagnostic and the said my fuel pump was only putting out 15 LBS PSI
said ti should be 35-45 said i needed a new fuel pump
my mechanic unhooked the alarm wires that the idoit before installed and found 1 running into the OBD Port ( he cant think why it would be there and think it might have shorted ECM )
as soon as alll the alarm wires were gone we started it and it had 25 lbs fuel pressure
now ran much better more power but still bogs and hesitating
so a buddy a work gave my his old 94 Bonneville se i drove it to my mechanics
dropped its tank took the 94 se fuel pump and sending unit put it in my 93 SSE
both were 3800 series 1 and started my car and it has no pressure now the fuel injector rail is full of fuel and is getting fuel from the pump but not under pressure and the car now just bogs and back fires
now is not self movable
so this is were im at
im more then will to make a donation to anyone that can tell me how to fix this for good
changed parts
fuel filter
fuel pressure regulator
Throttle position sensor
throttle body gasket
new plugs new wires
fuel pump
battery
my car was running drive accelerate to high speeds but only if i was light on the throttle if i stepped on it at all it would hesitate then bog then let off and give it half throttle it will go into over drive and accelerate but poorly and without much power behind it
then on occasion (once every week or 2 seems maybe when i get gas) i would go fill up my gas start my car and drive and it would drive as stated above but the next time id shut off my car if usually wouldn't start i would turn it over it would start run like it had bad MAF bog and studder and put when idling and when giving lots of throttle it backfires into the baffles
if i dont give it any gas it will stall and not start if i can pump the gas for a few minute sometimes it stay running and corrects itself
if it stalls i try to turn it over and it goes ( pop pop ) and then just cranks over as if it had no fuel then id leave it for a minute or to try it get a ( pop pop ) then just cranking
thought there might be a short because the ( Driver Information Lamp Monitor )screen went blank not light but the rest of the gauge cluster had light and even the digital compass had back light and the light under the hood for servicing motor goes out as well
and if i can keep the car running for a few minute the monitor would come back on and the hood light came back on and the car started running as first stated
so i checked the engine codes
got 21 and 34
all throttle body sensors manifold senors
so changed TPS no more code 21
cleaned throttle body and all MAF changed throttle body gasket
idel air sensor seemed in good shape
checked code still had them removed car alarm
checked coded codes GONE
Car Running a bit better hasn't not started yet ( knock on wood )
but still bogs and hesitates
So it to it To GM lol
paid for the $100 diagnostic and the said my fuel pump was only putting out 15 LBS PSI
said ti should be 35-45 said i needed a new fuel pump
my mechanic unhooked the alarm wires that the idoit before installed and found 1 running into the OBD Port ( he cant think why it would be there and think it might have shorted ECM )
as soon as alll the alarm wires were gone we started it and it had 25 lbs fuel pressure
now ran much better more power but still bogs and hesitating
so a buddy a work gave my his old 94 Bonneville se i drove it to my mechanics
dropped its tank took the 94 se fuel pump and sending unit put it in my 93 SSE
both were 3800 series 1 and started my car and it has no pressure now the fuel injector rail is full of fuel and is getting fuel from the pump but not under pressure and the car now just bogs and back fires
now is not self movable
so this is were im at
im more then will to make a donation to anyone that can tell me how to fix this for good
changed parts
fuel filter
fuel pressure regulator
Throttle position sensor
throttle body gasket
new plugs new wires
fuel pump
battery
#2
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
Why in the world would he hook the alarm into the PCM. Wonder if it fried any programming? A 94 fuel pump is still 15 years old and may pump but not give much pressure. If you have a parts car, maybe you can swap out the PCM. Not sure if their same/same. A gearhead will be on tomorrow and be able to say for sure.
#3
If your looking to swap engine PCM'*
stay in the years from 1991-1993 these years interchange
1994-1995 interchange but not with 1993 and older
if you ever want to look up parts for your car and want to see what model years interchange go to
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
very good web site. They use the Hollander interchange. Very trusted. Almost never wrong.
Also you made mention that the 'professional' that installed the car alarm tapped into the computer pin out. Do you remember which one he tapped into. Or is there a way for you to look. Only reason I ask is because if you can tell us which one he tapped into, we can tell you what pin out he may have fried.
Also just because a sensor looks fine doesn't mean it is. Have an experienced mechanic do a sensor scan/map out the sensors reactions to his test. This way you can pin point which sensors are working/reading correctly and which ones are not.
you may use this for pin out reference:
Thanks to Danthurs for this.
Hope this helps.
Todd.
stay in the years from 1991-1993 these years interchange
1994-1995 interchange but not with 1993 and older
if you ever want to look up parts for your car and want to see what model years interchange go to
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
very good web site. They use the Hollander interchange. Very trusted. Almost never wrong.
Also you made mention that the 'professional' that installed the car alarm tapped into the computer pin out. Do you remember which one he tapped into. Or is there a way for you to look. Only reason I ask is because if you can tell us which one he tapped into, we can tell you what pin out he may have fried.
Also just because a sensor looks fine doesn't mean it is. Have an experienced mechanic do a sensor scan/map out the sensors reactions to his test. This way you can pin point which sensors are working/reading correctly and which ones are not.
you may use this for pin out reference:
Thanks to Danthurs for this.
Hope this helps.
Todd.
Last edited by Toddster; 02-09-2009 at 06:43 AM.
#4
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I'm willing to bet the ECM is messed up. But a few things to check is, do you have spark when it'* cranked? Is it a strong blue spark, or a weak one. If strong then move to teh fuel system. If weak check your coils and plug wires. Inspect the spark plugs for fowling. I would lean more towards the ECM/PCM being shot. Be sure to look over your wires close. If possible, try changing your MAP sensor. These can do some odd things when they go.
#5
where is the map sensor located on a 1993 non supercharged series 1 3800
1993 Pontiac Bonneville SSE
the pump that i took out of the 94 drove me fine to my mechanics where i took it out and put it in my car
there is a change it got bang durnign tank swap but i would think unlikely
also my gas mileage is about 300 KM to a FULL Tank
and i always fill my tank so the fuel pump has coolant
1993 Pontiac Bonneville SSE
the pump that i took out of the 94 drove me fine to my mechanics where i took it out and put it in my car
there is a change it got bang durnign tank swap but i would think unlikely
also my gas mileage is about 300 KM to a FULL Tank
and i always fill my tank so the fuel pump has coolant
#8
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Is the engine coolant temp sensor putting out the proper amount of volts relative to the engine coolant temps? If you get a sensor thats waaay out of range, it will dump fuel in the engine like crazy, since the pcm is fooled into thinking its very cold, or hot out. Just something to check.
My MAF went bad in september. Basically, you had to hold the throttle open, and when it would warm up, the engine would just not stay running. It ran terrible because it was dumping gas in the cylinders like crazy.
Right on top of the throttle, rectangular box, ya can't miss it. I got mine from a low miler lesabre and it cost me 10 bucks, compared to OE $220...
My MAF went bad in september. Basically, you had to hold the throttle open, and when it would warm up, the engine would just not stay running. It ran terrible because it was dumping gas in the cylinders like crazy.
Right on top of the throttle, rectangular box, ya can't miss it. I got mine from a low miler lesabre and it cost me 10 bucks, compared to OE $220...
#9
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If you suspect the MAF as being bad, unplug it and drive without it. You will get a SES light. Drive normal, just don't accelerate past half throttle. If it runs better, you have a bad MAF, if no change, the MAF is not the problem.
#10
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