wheel bearing replacement
i looked at another post about a wheel bearing, but became confused. I'm pretty sure my rear left wheel bearing is going out, loud noise, uneven tire tread, but I want to know what I should buy. The wheel bearing, or the entire hub/assembly? does the hub/assembly come with the wheel bearing? What about a junk yard. I'm totally lost what I need to buy since I read the other post, so any help would be appreciated.
Dave
Dave
The wheel bearing can not be purchased separately. It is part of the sealed hub assembly so the entire hub has to be replaced. My suggestion would be to purchase a new, rather than used hub.
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From: Chicago,IL MWBF '04 SURVIVOR MWBF '05 SURVIVOR Napa Manager

Originally Posted by Archon
The wheel bearing can not be purchased separately. It is part of the sealed hub assembly so the entire hub has to be replaced. My suggestion would be to purchase a new, rather than used hub.
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)

I actually just helped to do this to mkaake'* '96 Lesabre this weekend. Depending on your situation, a junkyard piece may make sense. We priced it out at Autozone for $155-ish, and ended up getting a used junkyard unit for $40. With a 90 day warranty. Unless you're rolling in cash, I would look at all of your options.
It'* not a very hard job to do. You just take off the wheel, remove the brake drum. Using a Torx-50 socket, remove the four screws holding the hub in place. You actually don't have to remove any of the brake pads, etc. Remove the ABS connector from the back side of the hub, if you have ABS. Then, in theory, it just comes off. In reality, it usually takes some pounding. What we ended up doing was taking an old brake rotor, and bolding it to the hub backwards (rotor out) and using it as a pounding surface. Worked pretty slick. Make sure you don't drop the brake assembly, as it'* held in place by the hub that you're trying to pound out. Then just put everyting back together.
Good luck!
It'* not a very hard job to do. You just take off the wheel, remove the brake drum. Using a Torx-50 socket, remove the four screws holding the hub in place. You actually don't have to remove any of the brake pads, etc. Remove the ABS connector from the back side of the hub, if you have ABS. Then, in theory, it just comes off. In reality, it usually takes some pounding. What we ended up doing was taking an old brake rotor, and bolding it to the hub backwards (rotor out) and using it as a pounding surface. Worked pretty slick. Make sure you don't drop the brake assembly, as it'* held in place by the hub that you're trying to pound out. Then just put everyting back together.
Good luck!
Just call up a local parts store and say "hey this is soandso from soandso'* garage, I need a hub assembly, You should get it at wholesale, tell them to put it on a cash ticket and you'll come by and pick it up. I do it all the time.
There are many times that I would use "previously owned" parts on a vehicle, in particular an older one., and have done so many times. My personal philosophy is that there are some parts that should always be new Most brake parts, most suspension, and steering parts, and the wheel hub are some of them. The '93 SSE that a friend owns, and I work on, had the front hubs go. It got new ones. Just my two cents worth.
yeah, i want to get new ones, however as a poor college student, money is always a factor. I just wish the part wasn't 155 bucks, thats really expensive to me (basically, around christmas time, and I have a tuition check due in 2 weeks, which is utterly ridiculus considering christmas is right around the corner, ******* college) but I will buy a new one because I'd rather buy a new one and know that it will last.
anybody know where I can get a good discount, 155 at autozone is the cheapest so far. I live south of Cincinnati, so if anybody can help out, it would be really appreciated
Dave
anybody know where I can get a good discount, 155 at autozone is the cheapest so far. I live south of Cincinnati, so if anybody can help out, it would be really appreciated
Dave
I understand about your money problems. My daughter is just finishing up with college. It appears as if both Autozone and Advance Auto Parts have about the same price of them. I don't know if there is a discount auto parts store in your area that could beat them or not. As it is so expensive - you're fairly sure that is your problem? No sense spending that kind of money to find out that it wasn't the problem. What kind of noise are you hearing, and what type of tire wear?
here is what I am experiencing
when my tires rotate, they make a loud bump type noise, not sure how else to describe it, also my tires are worn on the outter edges, every three inches or so, the tread is raised up, then falls down, and repeats every three inches
I hope that is clear enough, if not, I can take pictures
Dave
when my tires rotate, they make a loud bump type noise, not sure how else to describe it, also my tires are worn on the outter edges, every three inches or so, the tread is raised up, then falls down, and repeats every three inches
I hope that is clear enough, if not, I can take pictures
Dave
That does not sound like a bearing problem. You are discribing tire cupping or scalloping. Though it can be caused by bearings, balance or worn shocks/struts are more likely the cause. I'd check that first.
http://www.autoshop-online.com/cchtml/tire.wr.prob.html
http://www.kaltire.com/commercial/me...es/cupping.php
http://www.autoshop-online.com/cchtml/tire.wr.prob.html
http://www.kaltire.com/commercial/me...es/cupping.php


