VATS *Permanent* bypass
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VATS *Permanent* bypass
Hey, Bonneville Experts,
What do you guys think of this option? I want to permanently kill the annoying VATS from my dad'* '93, and this is the response that I got from www.12volt.com:
"You could simply ground the bypass activation wire to provide a fulltime bypass. This is not how the unit is intended to be used but it can be installed this way or you could add a toggle switch so the factory system can be rearmed when you want.
Model IPP Instant learn passlock bypass.
http://www.12voltshop.com/proddetail.asp?prodid=IPPME&cat=1311&path=1,1311"
Does this sound like a viable option? Which wire is the "bypass activation wire"?
Thanks!
What do you guys think of this option? I want to permanently kill the annoying VATS from my dad'* '93, and this is the response that I got from www.12volt.com:
"You could simply ground the bypass activation wire to provide a fulltime bypass. This is not how the unit is intended to be used but it can be installed this way or you could add a toggle switch so the factory system can be rearmed when you want.
Model IPP Instant learn passlock bypass.
http://www.12voltshop.com/proddetail.asp?prodid=IPPME&cat=1311&path=1,1311"
Does this sound like a viable option? Which wire is the "bypass activation wire"?
Thanks!
#2
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Does the 93 use the resistor pellet in the key? If so, you can bypass the need for that simply by installing a 99 cent resistor in the wiring for the key switch
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Yep, it uses the resistor type key. But.....if a known good key with the resistor doesn't fix the problem, how would it be any different by essentially putting the same resistor value in a different place in the same circuit?
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Ah--didn't know about the new key thing--the last time I had to deal with one of those situations, the resistor in the key had somehow broken down over time, and the value was no longer correct--it was off by 100 ohms or so
In that case, the resistor trick worked
As far as your original question though--it appears the "activation" wire they are talking about is something on the unit they sell which makes it work; not something on the car originally
good luck,
Jim
In that case, the resistor trick worked
As far as your original question though--it appears the "activation" wire they are talking about is something on the unit they sell which makes it work; not something on the car originally
good luck,
Jim
#5
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I remember reading elsewhere that a common Bonneville problem was the ignition lock cylinder. Adding the resistor in the wiring under the steering column may fix the problem if the problem is in the contacts within the lock cylinder. If the problem is in the pass key module or the wiring to it, obviously this wouldn't help.
By the way, splicing a resistor into the circuit wouldn't normally be very difficult, but it'* kinda hard to work under the dash.
By the way, splicing a resistor into the circuit wouldn't normally be very difficult, but it'* kinda hard to work under the dash.
#6
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Originally Posted by jimzdat
As far as your original question though--it appears the "activation" wire they are talking about is something on the unit they sell which makes it work; not something on the car originally
However, it'* not connected to the VATS system; that is still expecting to see a "correct" resistance through the ignition switch before it will allow the car to be started.
#8
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True Car Nut
Originally Posted by Bassplayincrowe
There is a keybypass box you can get at most Remote Car Starter Places because they have to bypass it to start the car remotely.
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