My brakes are wobbling like crazy on my 95 SSEi. I have re-surfaced the rotors numerous time, but it still wobbles when braking at high speed.

When someone suggest the caliper is sticking do they mean the piston inside the caliper or the two rails/pins the caliper rides on?

If I recall the rails/pins siti in a rubber bushing in the caliper. Can this bushing be replaced or should I change the entire caliper?

Thanks.

It could be either case. When you resurfaced the rotors did you clean and then lubricate the slides and rubber bushings with high temperature grease? Certainly rebuilt calipers are very cheap to replace and will likely eliminate the possibility of a sticky piston, even so you will need to reuse your slider bolts and everything will need proper lubrication.

If you've already resurfaced the rotors once then you'll need to replace them now. If you've resurfaced them more than once it'* likely you've shaved off too much material and the rotors are less than their minimal servicable thickness. Be sure to change your pads with new rotors to ensure best performance.

Cheers,

I've had this problem constantly since i've gotten my car, and it getting ceramic brake pads helped with the actual warping of the rotors (as in, they don't warp anymore ), but one other thing that you may want to check out is getting your wheels balanced more often.

Many times i've started having this problem get worse and worse only to be fixed completely by balancing the wheels. It'* especially bad if you have any dents in your rims...

And if you go to NTB, you can get a lifetime balancing so you only have to pay once

I don't even bother turning rotors on most vehicles anymore (FWD). The rotors are really not thick enough and they are not made of the same quality steel that they were made out of years ago. I can turn my own rotors for free but I just replace them for the price of it. It is very important that when placing the rotors back on the hub that it is very clean. Even a small speck of rust can really throw the rotor off kilter. Proper torquing of the wheel is essential as well. 100 ft/lbs in the star pattern. Over torquing will warp the hub of the rotor and you will never turn that out. Oh, having a good lathe set up properly helps too.

I agree with replacing rotors as opposed to resurfacing them...they're disposable in my opinion.

Cheers,

That'* the same thing I do too. I just replace the rotors. Cheap insurance against premature warping from getting them turned. Plus, for my 93 and 99, they're only $18 each at AutoZone! Nothing high performance, but the get the job done very well do it safely!

Thanks for all the advice. I have decided to replace the Calipers since I am confident the bushings are goin out. When I last checked the pads I noticed that one of the slide bolts had to be tapped with a hammer to push them out. The rebuild kit and slider/bushing kits add up to about $20 bucks. A reman caliper sells for $25.

Any advice or pointers on replacing calipers? Do I drain all of the brake fluide then refill/bleed or is there a trick to saving the brake fluid?

Thanks again for all the advide.

Well, I replaced the calipers and went ahead and re-surfaced the rotors. When I got them back I noticed something, one of the rotors had the outside wall a different thickness than the other one. The overall thickness was correct, but the walls were thinner. These were the 19.99 replacements from autozone.

Anway, put everything back togethere, with the new calipers, and damn, the wobble was worse than before. Couldn't even drive the damn thing.

Went and bought new rotors, the 29.99 1 yr and new pads, lifetime ones and bingo car brakes smoothely.

Live and learn. Especially, the "old" rotors were no more than 6 months old.

Thanks for your help, and now on I will just replace the rotors.

Later.

i prefer the replacing of rotors then turnin theres no point in it

It'* _critical_ that the lug nuts be properly torqued by hand to the correct torque setting. In extreme cases, I've actually been able to relieve (though not eliminate) rotor warping on a car by re-torquing its lug nuts. Slamming the lug nuts on with an air wrench, even using a torque stick, is no substitute for proper tightening with a torque wrench, and can lead to rotor warping.