Maybe someone can help me find a good starting point. I recently had my codes scanned and this is the results.

Current Code P0125 Closed Loop
Min. Coolant temp not met in time

History Code P0113 Manifold Air Temp
(MAT) Sensor Signal High

History Code p0117 Coolant Temp Sensor
Sensor Signal High

Current Code P0125 Closed Loop
Coolant Temp Counter High Bit

History Code P0138 Oxygen Sensor
Catalyst 02 Sensor High

Current Code P0172 Fuel Trim
Sensor Signal Rich High Bit

Current Code P0172 Fuel Trim
Sensor Signal Rich Low Bit

History Code P0502 Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) Low

History Code P0571 ABS Traction Control PWM
Signal Problem

History Code P0630 Battery Voltage
Signal Out Of Range

All of these must have came up over the last week. Since I had it scanned then to diagnose a TPS sensor problem.
The check engine light came on about three days ago and now stays on. The car has stalled on me a few times since and has lost power.
I replaced the battery, the coolant temperature sensor and switch, and I'm still waiting for the (MAT) or (IAT) sensor to arrive.
Is one of these sensors responsible for bad readings from the others, or are they all going bad?

Alternator/Battery could cause all of them, actually. Low PCM voltage does funny stuff. Also check the connectors on your PCM. One of them may be loose or corroded.

I had the alternator replaced about a year ago at the dealership. Haven't checked it since. The Battery voltage message may have came from the battery (the connection was stripped, and loose). I replaced the battery and tightened everything down.
Changed the coolant temp switch and sensor, cleared the codes, and started the engine. As the engine began to warm up the SES light came back on. I let it warm up to operating temperature and all seemed well except for the SES light. I test drove it but it still seemed to lack full power and doesnt shift as smoothly as it should.

Just drove it about 30 miles the SES light on the whole time. Couldn't get it to go into overdrive gear( seemed as if lacked fuel pressure). Stopped at a diner for a burger, then drove it about 20 miles without the light. Turned on the AC cause it'* in the 90'* and it naturally loses more power and a minute later the SES light comes back on. On my way to try and get it scanned for codes again.

Got the results from my scan back and turns out none of the codes above were even from my car. The only thing that showed up was the Throttle position sensor again.

It'* probably the connector end. So I ordered a new wire harness.

I am done taking it for the free scan at the parts stores. But I dont want to have to pay for a scan every time I have a malfunction either. Anyone have an OBD I scanner with an OBD II connector end that they would like to part with at a reasonable price?

Post in the wanted section here and look on ebay for an Actron 9150. I believe that'* the one others here use successfully for the '94-95 models.

When you get a lot of incorrect codes, suspect the PCM. Like willwren said, check the grounds first. The main PCM ground is on the engine near the oil filter housing. Also, unplug and plug the three connectors on the PCM a few times in case you might have a corroded contact.

Just so you are aware, this is what happened when I tried to fix a random stalling problem on my '95. I had determined after trying nearly everything else that my PCM might be bad. The first replacement PCM (remanufactured and guaranteed) set a long list of codes that were false. The second one from the same company set a bunch of different false codes. The third PCM (from a different rebuilder, more expensive and not guaranteed) solved the problem and set no codes.

If I had replaced parts based on the faulty information from those first two PCMs, I would have spent hundreds of dollars and still not solved the problem.

If you have reason to suspect the PCM, I would suggest trying a different one from a junkyard to see if the problems change or go away. Jr's3800 likes to find low-miles OEMs instead of the remans, 'cause of the problems I stated above.

i can get a PCM for you out of the Junkyard, Im going this weekend

Thanks, I'll keep the PCM in mind but I think I am dealing with a bad TPS right now. I had it scanned at the shop and that was the only code that showed up. The other codes were scanned at a parts store (no names). And he said he didn't think something was right. A different tech scanned it a week before and only the TPS sensor showed.
I replaced it and it seemed to be 100%. Well about a week went by and I was doing about 60 went to pass a car and pressed the accelator down but it seemed to take a little to long to respond and thats when the light came back on. Been on almost ever since.
A friend of mine gave me this car with a blown engine. I replaced it with a low mileage salvaged engine around 50 K. And I've been fixing it up. Rus great exept for this small problem. Going to check on the grounds now that I have been forwarned.