UIM replacement brand & how. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-10-2007, 06:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archon
If you are attempting to take the crossover off to remove the bracket that connects to the side of the throttle body, that is not necessary. Just give it a good whack to the side to get it out of the way. Remember it when you put the throttle body back on before you tighten the TB or it won't line up properly.
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Do you mean just bend it forward to get it out of the way? And then bend it back before replacing throttle body?

I figured I'd lift the UIM and then take the throttle body loose since the bracket'* in the way and the studs on the right crossover end are tightening up in their threads in the underside of the bracket (there aren't taps there I found).
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Old 05-10-2007, 06:29 PM   #12
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If your engine'* wiring is similar to the rest, you will have a heck of a time getting the UIM and the throttle body out around that wiring.

To be certain we are speaking of the same bracket, it'* the black one on the left side of this picture.
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It is held in with a bolt on the bottom, so you won't be bending the bracket (shove it toward the front of the car) just moving it where the bolt attaches it to the LIM.

Yes, move it away for now. When it comes time for reassembly, put the TB back on, put the nuts on loosely, the put the bolt back in for the bracket to TB attachement, after you move the bracket back.
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Old 05-10-2007, 07:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archon
If your engine'* wiring is similar to the rest, you will have a heck of a time getting the UIM and the throttle body out around that wiring.

To be certain we are speaking of the same bracket, it'* the black one on the left side of this picture.


It is held in with a bolt on the bottom, so you won't be bending the bracket (shove it toward the front of the car) just moving it where the bolt attaches it to the LIM.

Yes, move it away for now. When it comes time for reassembly, put the TB back on, put the nuts on loosely, the put the bolt back in for the bracket to TB attachement, after you move the bracket back.
That'* the one. I'll give it a push toward the front of the car and see if I can rotate it.

Thanks for the
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imidazol
That'* the one. I'll give it a push toward the front of the car and see if I can rotate it.

Thanks for the
The black bracket holding the end of the throttle body moved out of the way rotating toward the front easily. I didn't see that until your picture.

I found lots of coolant on top of the Lower Intake. I'm reluctant to remove the Lower because of the EGR input connection on the right and the coolant elbow on the left.

But I hear loud and clear so I'm off to my (not so) friendly GM dealer who did the job 75K miles ago, and buy a lower gasket and the elbow.

IS there a gasket for the EGR metal tube?

You guys are a big help. (You already knew that! grin.). If I drank, I'd be up to 4 beers since noon when I started. Three is the most I ever drank even in college.

Sore. Stiff. Not used to bending out the motor. Not a bad job but tense because I'm afraid of making a wrong move and not getting something sealed back up right.

I'll pick up the sealer for the lower gasket that Archon suggested.
Does that go on the o-rings for the elbow? I've read so many people'* input through the year about UIM replacements that I get confused. If this car goes to 225000 miles, the next owner can replace the UIM. Someone almost bought the car last night when she pulled out of a stop sign and didn't see me, so who knows the life of this car... Teen drivers...

Is Bill Buttermore the one wanting the "used" UIMs? Mine was like cork around the plastic tube the EGR gases go up through. I scratched with the corner of a screwdriver to see if there was a way for there to be a leak. I couldn't see a leak around any of the gasket material and the orange layers that were there.
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Old 05-10-2007, 08:50 PM   #15
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Bob Dillon takes the used ones, and rebuilds them with a sleeve similar to APNs. Bill Buttermore generally uses them for research.

There is no gasket for the EGR tube, but be very carefully moving it around. They've been known to crack. Some will loosen it up at the EGR valve to be safe. If you do this, plan on replacing the EGR gasket.

I'd suggest taking off the tensioner on the driver'* side where the other end of the coolant elbow attaches. It can make things a bit easier to remove. Then, you can also replace the O-ring on the lower end of the tensioner. You can get the elbows at any auto parts store that has a good stock of the Dorman Help cards. There have been some issues with the GM elbows.

Clean out the LIM and the tensioner where the elbow slides in really well. Then, putting something like silicone (dielectric) grease around the o-rings makes them slide in easier. Some have used RTV to seal them in.
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:30 PM   #16
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Great job so far, Dick. imidazol, leave the thermostat out as you build the engine back up. That is where you will want to refill the engine with coolant according to this procedure: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
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Old 05-11-2007, 04:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Great job so far, Dick. imidazol, leave the thermostat out as you build the engine back up. That is where you will want to refill the engine with coolant according to this procedure: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
Thanks again for the tips. I'm on the rebuild side now.

The check engine light came on the last day I drove it, a total of 2 miles. Will that go off when I restart it-hoping it runs right and I didn't put some on wrong!!! grin.

Do I need to disconnect the battery to do a reset?
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:37 PM   #18
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Thanks, Bill.
Imidazol - It will depend on the cause of the CEL. Some will cause the light to turn off as soon as the problem that caused it is corrected. Others require a certain number of drive cycles. For OBD II cars, disconnecting the battery will not by itself reset the light. A code reader or scan tool would be required.
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Fm Bill Buttermore
Please do not consider doing only the UIM without pulling the LIM and installing the aluminum frame gaskets.
By the time you have the UIM off, you have done 80% of the work in getting the LIM off.
And very happy, in as much as I followed that very suggestion
Quote:
Fm Archon
......here is an "ancient" Fram oil filter commercial whose slogan fits here. A mechanic holding up the oil filter saying
"you can pay me now", and then pointing to rebuilding an engine ".....or you can pay me later."
Point, very well made.
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Old 05-12-2007, 03:29 PM   #20
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Let me say something here in case you run into some problems on startup.

Burning coolant has in many cases on this forum taken out spark plugs and O2 sensors. You will want fresh plugs to start with. After the engine is assembled, take out the old plugs and throw them out. Leave the new plugs out and crank the car for several seconds (It would be wise to pull the ICM and injector harnesses to keep fuel and spark from happening). This will dry out your cylinders, and keep coolant vapors from ruining your new plugs. Install your plugs and try to start.

When it starts, you will probably smoke a little (oh, keep in mind I am going on the assumption that you had a hard fail) as the cat is buring off coolant. If you CEL comes on, assuming all the sensors are hooked up right, it will either be a misfire code or O2 code.

And even if you did so already, change the oil. Your motor will thank ya
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