I had my car up at the shop to have it checked out and all that was wrong with it was I needed new plugs. With me messing around I flooded it and the plugs were covered in gas. Anyways the mechanic told me that my waterpump is about to go out. He said he can tell by the sound of it. Is this true or is this guy trying to make more money off of me. He told me that he would put it in for about $60 if I bought the part which is about $25. He told me not to drive the car until I got enought to have it fixed because it'* going to go at anytime and if it goes it'* going to more hassle. I don't know wether to trust him or not. It sucks I spent $50 to get it towed to the shop and another $60 to have him change the spark plugs. I could of done all that myself and saved a $100 but that'* my own fault for not pulling the plugs out. Also with gas bieing on the plugs and since I put new ones in will it idle rough for awhile until it'* cleared out?

From all of my experience, the two most common ways that a water pump fails is:
1. Seal fails, and leaks coolant out the "weep hole" on the bottom of the casting.
2. Bearings get "rough and noisy."

About #1, it will be obvious, because coolant will be leaking out.
About #2, it will be detectable by "the experienced ear."

-Also, about #2, I once saw a car ('63 409) with the fan blades stuck into the radiator when the water pump shaft broke. Evidently a result of a "seized bearing."

So, from my point of view, if I had a pump with a noisy bearing, I'd darn sure replace it. (granted, you won't have to worry about the fan blades into the radiator,,,,,)

Also, a word of caution: A rough bearing noise could be coming from several different places, and they all sound pretty much the same. If it were me, I think I'd remove the belt tension, slide the belt out of the way, and rotate (and/or spin) each device by hand, while "listening and feeling" for a rough bearing. CHECK ALL DEVICES, -including the tensioner pulley, any idler pulley if there is one, alternator, etc etc.

If its not leaking he may be joshing you... if its a whining noise it may be your alt. and not your WP. By the way a WP is an easy job if you have a floor jack.

I know how shops are. They try to take advantage of people. I thought it was rediculous what they charged me just to take the plugs out and put new ones in and I had to go get the new ones. I wasn't in the mood to argue with the dude so I paid him. I'm just glad my car is back running. I'll tell you you learn from your mistakes in the past 2 weeks I learned alot about ignition. If I ever do have a problem in that area again I know all the componets to it. I guess we'll see what goes on. If it goes out then I guess they were right if it don't then they was trying to clown me out of more money. I'l tell ya people will do anything to get that extra dollar, in my opinion it'* pretty pathetic.

I concur! Most mechanics are theives.. there are some honest ones.. but they are few and far between. If you start talking a little smart, they usually back off on the dishonesty. Just like at the dealer when my mom bought her car. They had listed the price $500 over the MSRP! I had told them about this, they brought the car down $750, and I told her to walk away, because she could get it $1.5k less.. but she doesn't think I know anything, [hence the overprice! loL]. Guess its part of everything.. and kinda proves a point. Men are better than women! loL j/k!


-justin

I just had my water pump replaced last month. Before it was replaced it was pretty noisy. I am by no means mechanically experienced and I knew right away what that sqweaking/squealing noise was. Believe me, you'll know when it'* on it'* way out!

Why do you need a floor jack?

After I replaced the wp in my mom'* '95 it made a different noise. Now it sounds like a jet engine winding up. That can't be normal, can it??

if its a naturally aspirated engine.. it shouldn't sound anything like a jet engine.. unless of course... it is a jet engine.


-justin

Because you have to remove the passenger side engine mount to provide access for the pump to come out. This is only on Series I engines.

Thanks for protecting me