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Twisted my fuel line… now what?

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Old 06-11-2010, 06:45 AM
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The Bonneville actually has a lot more holding points on the fuel line than a W body and ...he probably does have to undo a few clips. Colin..pry the clips off the body. That'* what we all have to do, I know this....cause I've been there and done that on my Bonneville in the past.

On the line. If you got a straight section of line and bought a tubing bender from the tool aisle, you would likely be all set as long as the line had the proper flare/nonflare and threads that you need for the filter.

Napa has nice steel compression fittings (read..non-brass) in the proper sizing typically.
Old 06-11-2010, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
On the line. If you got a straight section of line and bought a tubing bender from the tool aisle, you would likely be all set as long as the line had the proper flare/nonflare and threads that you need for the filter.

Napa has nice steel compression fittings (read..non-brass) in the proper sizing typically.
The Dorman repair kits all come with a brass fitting and steel lines. Odd.

Anyway, my boss knows someone who owns a machine shop. (Things he could have told me on Monday.) Let'* see how this goes.
Old 06-11-2010, 01:34 PM
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yea the steel compression fitings are def better and as far as the lines i didnt no that.... thanks bill.
Old 06-11-2010, 05:28 PM
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Well, I did it. No leaks!

Unfortunately, the engine is now misfiring almost constantly. It didn't do this on the ramps. Put in more gas, but same thing. What'* happening?
Old 06-12-2010, 12:10 PM
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Problem solved, although I'd love to know why.

Firstly, my friend noticed that the fuel line coming from the firewall into the fuel rail at the rear of the engine would shoot gas when pressed on. Fortunately, I was able to take the clip off of my old fuel filter to repair that.

It still misfired, though. We pulled out spark plugs #3 and #5. Both looked fine. A multimeter showed that cylinder #3'* wire was broken — odd because I wasn't getting a code for a single-cylinder misfire. (Time for new wires anyway.)

We put everything back together, and somehow, that fixed everything. My last question is… what? What could have been wrong?
Old 06-14-2010, 07:13 AM
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Pressing on the fuel lines will do that. It occurs when the rings inside get smooshed and deform. Very normal when pressing on the fuel lines.

It'* not clear if you replaced the wires. If you did, you had at least one bad wire, if not....then when you put the wire back in place it sat differently and is making some contact. I'd suggest replacing them.
Old 06-14-2010, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
It'* not clear if you replaced the wires. If you did, you had at least one bad wire, if not....then when you put the wire back in place it sat differently and is making some contact. I'd suggest replacing them.
I seem to have one bad wire (#3, the one you gave me). The multimeter says it has a break in it, but it runs fine on the car. Weird.

It'* time for new wires anyway. They're almost 50,000 miles old.

Last question… any advantage to running thicker wires on stock coils and one heat range colder plugs?
Old 06-14-2010, 10:16 AM
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One heat range colder plugs will result in a few less MPG'*, being stock and NA there isn't any good reasoning behind you swapping to colder.

Thicker plug wires are typically the same types of cores with more insulation around them. The Autolite Professionals at Advance come with a good warranty and are a good price in my book.

As for that #3 wire. It was a used, old crappy wire because you had an issue. We knew you needed wires at that time Double check the coil post etc wtih a little misting water at night to ensure it'* the wire and only the wire.
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