Air Vents
#1
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Posts like a V-Tak
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Air Vents
I recently had the air actuator changed out about 6 months ago and everything was fine untill tonite. When i change the air flow to the middle air vents the air wont blow out but it will blow from the top of the dash board and from the floor. Im not getting any blinking signs from the climate control. what seems to be the problem im stuck???
#3
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. A real easy one to check is on the vacuum reservior next to the brack master cylinder. There should be a vacuum line running to the bottom of it.
#6
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Like J Wikoff said above, check your vacuum line connections at the vacuum cannister, next to your brake master cylinder, first. That'* under your hood toward the driver'* side rear of the engine compartment.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Yes, it is 99% possible you can fix this problem w/o going into the dash. You will be under the hood. The center vent function works off of vacuum provided by your engine. There is a vacuum canister (basically a sealed plastic container) that holds vacuum and our current thoughts are this has become disconnected. A vacuum line is simply a rubber line and they are prone drying and aging.
When you lift the hood. On the driver side next to the brake unit (master cylinder is the part where you add brake fluid if needed) should be an odd shaped black plastic container (vac canister) with a vacuum hose going into the bottom front of it. If instead you have a metal/plastic item with a cable running out of it and a V6 sticker on the side, your vacuum canister is located under the front passenger fender. (You would need to jack the car up to get to that.) However we believe it is next to the brakes.
(Lash/Jwikoff: the L36 pics in gearhead area show the cruise control next to the brakes..I'm not positive on a 95 L36 if it was firewall or fender location. Anyone that can confirm, please do)
When you lift the hood. On the driver side next to the brake unit (master cylinder is the part where you add brake fluid if needed) should be an odd shaped black plastic container (vac canister) with a vacuum hose going into the bottom front of it. If instead you have a metal/plastic item with a cable running out of it and a V6 sticker on the side, your vacuum canister is located under the front passenger fender. (You would need to jack the car up to get to that.) However we believe it is next to the brakes.
(Lash/Jwikoff: the L36 pics in gearhead area show the cruise control next to the brakes..I'm not positive on a 95 L36 if it was firewall or fender location. Anyone that can confirm, please do)
#8
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Vac accumulator on a 95 with either the L36 or L67 is the same location as 92-94.
I like to describe the accumulator as an extension of the maxifuse relay center. Looks just like it (tricky, cleverly disguised).
I like to describe the accumulator as an extension of the maxifuse relay center. Looks just like it (tricky, cleverly disguised).
#9
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
When you push different buttons on the automatic climate control, does the air change which vent it'* coming out of? Like can you change from defrost and then to heat and the air correctly moves then? That would indicate you're getting vacuum to the controller unit inside the car.
I repaired the programmer vacuum connector in my 98 (LeSabre) because the 6-7 plug connector for the vacuum lines has little nipples in the connector that soften with age and suck into the opening when vacuum applies and shuts off the vacuum on a line. It is possible to remove the programmer, open the box, list connector colors in and out, cut out the connector, reconnect the 1/8" vacuum lines with gas line about 1.5 inch long and have everything working again. IF that'* what you problem turns out to be.
Assume the easier first. Everytime I did something on the spark plugs or wires on my 93I bumped the vacuum line to reservoir tank on the firewall built into the Relay Center plastic. First make sure vacuum is getting into the programmer inside the car.
I repaired the programmer vacuum connector in my 98 (LeSabre) because the 6-7 plug connector for the vacuum lines has little nipples in the connector that soften with age and suck into the opening when vacuum applies and shuts off the vacuum on a line. It is possible to remove the programmer, open the box, list connector colors in and out, cut out the connector, reconnect the 1/8" vacuum lines with gas line about 1.5 inch long and have everything working again. IF that'* what you problem turns out to be.
Assume the easier first. Everytime I did something on the spark plugs or wires on my 93I bumped the vacuum line to reservoir tank on the firewall built into the Relay Center plastic. First make sure vacuum is getting into the programmer inside the car.
#10
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The outlined procedure imidazol mentions is the other 1% of the time. We have a very good writeup with pictures on it. It'* not hard either, the typical fix is the vacuum line to the accumulator/canister.
Thanks Willwren for the confirmation it'* on the firewall between the maxifuse center and the brake booster.
Thanks Willwren for the confirmation it'* on the firewall between the maxifuse center and the brake booster.