Tensionor Replacement?
 

I just got done doing the water pump and want to do the tensinor, How hard is it to get the coolant lines out and transfered to the new one?

Why would you want to replace the entire tensioner assembly as opposed to just changing the pulley?

Cheers,

Agreed......The pulley is a 5 min and $20 job....unless you broke your tensioner and just haven't told us yet?

I couldn't find just the pulley itself the parts places aroud here only had the one bracket or I would have done it that way. The actual arm does not come off the brackect. It appears that the pulley does though.

Yeah, the pulley is like $20 at NAPA or O'Reilly's. Left hand thread on the nut - zip zip - yer done.

Now, if the arm is broken or the spring is broken or weak and you do need to replace the whole deal, to answer your question:

The steel elbow joints can be a little tricky to get out of the aluminum bores in the tensioner assembly. I put a little penetrating oil in mine, removed the little 5/16" nut that holds the "L" onto the casting and broke the corrosion loose by twisting on the heavy vertical steel part of the "L." Be careful not to use the horizontal tube and barb for the heater hose as the lever for twisting -the metal is very thin and will easily bend and distort. The vertical potion of the "L" is very stout and will allow a pair of channel locks with no problem. You will need new o-rings, of course.