Brake light won't go off
#1
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Brake light won't go off
Wife was backing out of the drive the other day when "DING!DING!DING!DING!DING!DING!" The brake light in the driver'* display came on. I looked at the car and saw brake fluid running down the front of the vacuum booster, so I figured the master cylinder had failed. I replaced it (afer suffering thru Autozone giving me the wrong part) -no more leak.
Bench bled it and installed it, tested the system, all seem to work well. My problem?? Brake light still on and DING!DING!DING!DING!DING!DING! driving me (or my wife-same thing!) crazy. Tried disconnecting the battery for 1 hour hoping to reset the computer, no effect. Car is a 93 with ABS. Anyone know how I can reset the error? I did connect the wire to the master cylinder, and the connection looks good, no corrosion or broken wires. Any suggestions?? Also-fluid levels OK, E-brake is off.
thanks all!
PS: I did try to search, however no matter what terms I entered, I kept getting non-relavent posts. Maybe a search FAQ???
Bench bled it and installed it, tested the system, all seem to work well. My problem?? Brake light still on and DING!DING!DING!DING!DING!DING! driving me (or my wife-same thing!) crazy. Tried disconnecting the battery for 1 hour hoping to reset the computer, no effect. Car is a 93 with ABS. Anyone know how I can reset the error? I did connect the wire to the master cylinder, and the connection looks good, no corrosion or broken wires. Any suggestions?? Also-fluid levels OK, E-brake is off.
thanks all!
PS: I did try to search, however no matter what terms I entered, I kept getting non-relavent posts. Maybe a search FAQ???
#3
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Originally Posted by faisalmali
Is E-brake pedal completely up? Mine is a bit loose, so I have to pull it up with my foot.
#4
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I'd be leaning toward checking that wire, however it wouldn't hurt to readjust your brake pedal switch. While you are down there you might as well test it.
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Yes, I've double checked that the e-brake is fully up, switch is fine. I'm wondering if it'* the sensor in the brake fluid resovoir? Is there any other sensors that would activate the brake light?? Since this is an ABS car, does the ABS unit set any codes that would make the light go on? Light only went on due to low fluid, so I'm leaning in that direction. Anyone know if I should get an open or closed circuit if the fluid level is OK?
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ABS should have it'* own light since if it fails, the brakes will still work. I can try and remember to hit my FSM'* for the circuit details when I get home
#7
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I'd think maybe that sensor. Try checking it with a meter and see the readings...once MOS checks his FSM you'll probably need that reading.
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Ok, connector has 3 pins on it. When I unplug it, the brake light goes out. Again, fluid levels fine, switch is fine on E-brake. Any suggestions or what I should see when checking the connector on the master cylinder?
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A== Ground
B== 12V, Hot in Run, Bulb Test, Start. Fuse 6.
C== Ground through ignition switch in "Bulb Test".
Meaning... With the connector disconnected; the car in Run, but the engine off...
The connector side:
A== 0 Ohms to the body.
B== 12V
C== Infinate ohms.
The sensor side: (if the sensor thinks the fluid level is okay):
A -- B == Infinate Ohms.
B -- C == 0 ohms.
A -- C == Infinate Ohms.
The sensor side: (if the sensor thinks the fluid level is low):
A -- B == 0 ohms.
B -- C == 0 ohms.
A -- C == 0 Ohms.
B== 12V, Hot in Run, Bulb Test, Start. Fuse 6.
C== Ground through ignition switch in "Bulb Test".
Meaning... With the connector disconnected; the car in Run, but the engine off...
The connector side:
A== 0 Ohms to the body.
B== 12V
C== Infinate ohms.
The sensor side: (if the sensor thinks the fluid level is okay):
A -- B == Infinate Ohms.
B -- C == 0 ohms.
A -- C == Infinate Ohms.
The sensor side: (if the sensor thinks the fluid level is low):
A -- B == 0 ohms.
B -- C == 0 ohms.
A -- C == 0 Ohms.
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