I have just replaced last night the fuel sending unit due to corrosion to the hard lines, having the fuel tank removed and all the good stuff that comes with it.....Now After I finished everything I find out that the fuel gauge does not work anymore. It stays at empty and check gauges light is on. Is there any way to test resistance ...or fix this issue without removing the tank again? Add a resistence on the line? Could it be a different model of fuel sending unit? I think the parts store screwed me somehow..... The wire plug is ok, I checked it 3 times. If anybody has had a similar issue this please help.

Did you notice the float fighting to get in the tank? maybe it'* bound?

No it went into the tank very easy and fine. What I am planning to do is try to ground the tank, and the sending unit, beacause before i reinstalled I cleaned the rust and primed and put 2 coats of paint on the tank, so maybe i lost the ground to the straps and the car by having so much paint. I think I need to close the circuit for the sending unit to work...Also I will try to put some silicone grease on the plug contacts...

Did you replace the pump?

I believe Randman found a difference in the voltages sent by the S2 fuel pump and his 91 fuel pump, but I am not sure what exactly the difference meant for him.

No the pump is still the old one. I had to change only the sending unit due to corrosion to the hard lines. There is a difference in the way the contacts and the phisical apearance of the float, but I thought it was just cosmetic.... Does anybody knows what resistance range I should be reading when the float moves? It is a '93. I will try to ge a resistance reading from the old sending unit and to compare it if the grounding does not solve anything.

Randy had to swap senders because of the difference in the pcm'* from 90 to 97. The range is much smaller in the older IIRC and much broader in the newer vehicles.

A ground should be supplied in the wiring harness you plug in, also the pump wouldn't run w/o a ground. I wish it was that easy. The best thing I can say is at least the bolts won't fight.

Thanks for the encouraging remarks with the bolts.... I would take it out, I should be done in about 2-3 hours, considering I know everynthing where it goes now and I can have the tank empty, but I cannot put back the old sending unit, and it seems that it is imposible to remove the float and the variable resistor thing from the old unit. It seems to be welded on. What would be the answer? Maybe a resistor on the line to modify the range.....?

I'd head to the parts store you bought it at and talk nicely with them. Explain that you've put this part in and it'* not working. Ask if they'll get one in stock before you pull the current one. That way when you pull it they have one on hand to replace it with as you believe the current is a bad part.

Nice is the key here. Usually they are willing to help you and they can return special orders w/o much of a problem. Then you pull your part and look for anything obvious as to why it'* not working. If you see nothing. swap with theirs. Then hook the new one up and confirm it'* good before putting it in the tank.

I've pulled my tank/sender/pump ~6 times in the last year. After the first time..I kept telling myself. "at least it'll come out easy". Don't get me started on engines..typical time to pull one out is 2 hours.

You are right, this was my first instinc, to go back to the store and try to reason with them somehow and to explain the part was defective. I will try to go that route at the same time....

No need to try and reason that the part is defective.

Mention you have thoroughly checked everything that could be wrong including connectors, fuses etc etc. Float seemed fine when you put it in..

(unless you didn't put enough fuel in to register? How much did you put in?