hi,

I recently changed pads and rotors on my 94 SE. After that the ABS light was on and I couldn't switch the TC off (stayed constantly on). I also needed to step on the gas pedal much harder than usually to start moving each time I stopped (normally the car gently starts moving after I take my leg off the brake pedal and I don't need more than 2000 rpm when I don't want to accelerate faster, now it needs over 2500 rpm to start moving at all). Next two days all was ok, yesterday the problem returned, today all was ok again. The problem could be on the wheels (with pads or rotors, calipers stuck or the like...), I didn't check on the wheels yet, but I noticed that when abs light stays on the ventilation sucks - doesn't blow warm and doesn't blow stronger/weaker no matter what I do with the ****. Engine temp remains unaffected, as far as I can tell. Can this problem be of electrical nature? Or what can make the ABS/ventilation work (or not work:/) simultanously?

ttl

You should pull the wheels back off and inspect the brakes. The description you give sounds like the abs light is on due to a fault it'* detecting and one of your calipers is hung.

When you changed all the stuff, did you clean and lube all the slides and pins? Did the piston push in easy?

ABS will not see a hung caliper. There is no feedback.

An ABS light or TC light will not be related to pads, calipers, rotors, etc. They are totally independent.

Look for ABS/TC components to have a problem, not standard braking hardware.

When you changed all the stuff, did you clean and lube all the slides and pins? Did the piston push in easy?[/quote]


didn't do it myself, so I can't tell.. I'll definitely have to check on the brakes tomorrow.

As the other Bill mentioned (sorry I'm not as familiar) check the abs stuff.. connectors to the backing plates etc.

This has me thinking a ground/chassis wiring problem in the passenger cabin.

ok, I don't know how it works and I of course believe you if you say it'* independent, but I have a theoretical question.

Logically - abs/tc can be activated by different speed registered by the WSS - this is AFAIR how abs or tc work - the source of speed diference is external (e.g. one wheel on ice and therefore moving faster, or not moving - during braking). Can't the abs system be activated by an internal source (some mechanical problem) that leads to different speeds registered by various speed sensors?

More practical - checking abs would mean backing plates, connections and what else can I do by myself? Unfortunately I can't go to a shop for scanning, and to buy myself a scanning tool (especially for a 94 OBD1/OBD2 hybrid) is quite expensive

I don't think that this is necessarily a problem you need a scanner to fix. If you are somewaht familiar with your car and do any of the work yourself, check some of the things mentioned by Will and Bill above. Or have the mechanic that did your brakes check these items. That ground/wiring comment especially.

A through review of any area that might have been disturbed by the brake change is in order before you start looking elsewhere, IMO.

Yes, the connectors on the backing plates are quick and easy for you to check. Look the wires over for nicks or cuts.

Being that you feel resistance when driving the car like a brake is hung up, I am not as quick to jump at the ground possibility inside the car. It'* possible, but let'* start outside at the brakes.

Let'* not discount the possiblity of two unrelated problems here. One with the basic braking system, and another electrical problem affecting the ABS/TC. It'* not coincidence that he has CC problems at the same time as the ABS/TC light.