HELP! Engine running HOT**UPDATE**
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HELP! Engine running HOT**UPDATE**
I found out today that my engine temp is 225 (the line after 200) no matter if I'm cruising it doesn't go down. It just stay at 225 while I'm driving, accelerating, and idling. Is this a stuck thermostat? It use to go down to 200 while I'm driving now it doesn't.
Also, when I accelerate my oil pressure goes all the way to 120 and acts like it wants to go pass that, is this normal. When I stop at a light or idle it goes down to 40 sometimes.
Also, when I accelerate my oil pressure goes all the way to 120 and acts like it wants to go pass that, is this normal. When I stop at a light or idle it goes down to 40 sometimes.
#2
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Answering backwards:
Fairly typical symptoms of an oil pressure sensor failure. It'* above the oil filter on the rear of the engine (passenger side). Access it throug the right front fenderwell after you take the splash shields (and wheel) off.
On the temps.....didn't you suspect the cat failing recently? Clogged cats can cause that. Any loss of power? Can you link us to your other topic?
Fairly typical symptoms of an oil pressure sensor failure. It'* above the oil filter on the rear of the engine (passenger side). Access it throug the right front fenderwell after you take the splash shields (and wheel) off.
On the temps.....didn't you suspect the cat failing recently? Clogged cats can cause that. Any loss of power? Can you link us to your other topic?
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http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=75733
The reason I assumed the cat was clogged because of the symptoms. Also I heard the same rattle that I was hearing before my old cat failed. The honeycomb isn't broken down though, not yet at least. I was going to do the back pressure test, but I'm not sure about being that much under the car. If I had a lift then thats a different story.
And I do have power and gas lost when the engine gets hot. Feel like I'm trying to push this car with a 4 cylinder engine.
The reason I assumed the cat was clogged because of the symptoms. Also I heard the same rattle that I was hearing before my old cat failed. The honeycomb isn't broken down though, not yet at least. I was going to do the back pressure test, but I'm not sure about being that much under the car. If I had a lift then thats a different story.
And I do have power and gas lost when the engine gets hot. Feel like I'm trying to push this car with a 4 cylinder engine.
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3 out of 4 symptoms surveyed prefere a cat failure.
Take it to an exhaust shop and have the backpressure tested. Take it there HOT. Explain your problems very well.
Take it to an exhaust shop and have the backpressure tested. Take it there HOT. Explain your problems very well.
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I took it to the shop today and the exhaust dude told me that my car is running rich, which explains a couple of things. My CAT is a rusty color and it was just changed like a month ago. So now I need to figure out why my car is running rich.
I didn't get the back pressure test done, because they gave me a run around and told me it was free, but when I got there it costs $15 which I didn't have on me at the time. I'll get the test done later on today.
I didn't get the back pressure test done, because they gave me a run around and told me it was free, but when I got there it costs $15 which I didn't have on me at the time. I'll get the test done later on today.
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Running rich sounds like a bad O2 sensor. May need to change it out and let it relearn.
EDIT: Yeah, what Bill said, hehe. Posted at the same time almost. :P
EDIT: Yeah, what Bill said, hehe. Posted at the same time almost. :P
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so, my problems is that-
1. I could have oil contaminated with fuel
2. misfire
3. a defective PCV system
3. a dead O2 sensor
4. a bad coolant sensor
5. Fuel evaporative system
6. High fuel pressure
7. Leaking injector
8. MAP sensor
9. TPS sensor
10. coolant sensor
11. air charge temperature sensor
Could you test leaking injectors by starting the engine @ WOT?
1. I could have oil contaminated with fuel
2. misfire
3. a defective PCV system
3. a dead O2 sensor
4. a bad coolant sensor
5. Fuel evaporative system
6. High fuel pressure
7. Leaking injector
8. MAP sensor
9. TPS sensor
10. coolant sensor
11. air charge temperature sensor
Could you test leaking injectors by starting the engine @ WOT?
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Should I do a o2 reading at idle or while driving? The last time I checked which was about 3 weeks ago my o2 crosscnts varied from 27-34, the o2 MV varied, but was mostly in the 800'*, my TPS sensor was .55v, and the a/f ratio was 15.3 and this was all @ idle, closed loop.
EDIT: When I changed my CAT I changed the o2 and did a full tune-up. I don't want to change the CAT again and end up in the same situation.
EDIT: When I changed my CAT I changed the o2 and did a full tune-up. I don't want to change the CAT again and end up in the same situation.