1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Finally swapped 92 fuel pump and strainer

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Old 08-20-2004, 04:52 PM
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Default Finally swapped 92 fuel pump and strainer

Guess what I found. The connector on the old and new pump is THE SAME. No need to buy a new connector. All the pics I could find before did not show the extra connection attached to the terminals of the original pump. So, now I have a connector I didn't need. Here'* some pics:
Old pump and strainer


Old and new strainer together


Things I learned/found:
Reinstallation of the tank is a bitch if you can't disconnect the fuel lines from the sender because of corrosion.
Bringing my FSM with me and reading about it would me much easier than discovering that a rusty old cam ring holds the sender and pump in place.
Bending the float arm in the proper direction will adjust your incorrect fuel level gauge, but don't go very far!! My gauge now reads empty when I still have 3 gallons.
The new strainer is twice as long.
I don't see how the baffle around the pump and sender could fail (another topic).
Old 08-20-2004, 05:01 PM
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That looks just like the strainer from the 94! Have you tried that hard turn to see if it stalls yet?
Old 08-20-2004, 05:14 PM
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Yeah, I tried. No stalls. It makes me so happy!!
Old 08-23-2004, 03:05 PM
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So where should I buy the pump and strainer for my '92 SSE */c?
Do you know the part numbers?
Do you have any tips or instructions? I've been thinking about replacing mine for a while now.
Thanks.
Old 08-24-2004, 06:25 PM
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My new pump came from GMPD. A new strainer comes with the pump, so don't worry about ordering a new one. You might need new tank straps, mine were okay, but a little rusty, so new ones went on. Most likely the rods on the ends won't come out of the old ones. I sawed off the heads and threads of two bolts that had 3" of smooth shank between head and thread, and used those for the ends of the straps. Have a can of WD-40 handy!! The two bolts for the straps and the cam ring holding the pump in will most likely need it.

#25117339 will get you the pump, strainer, and hardware you'll need for the pump. I don't know the part number for the tank straps, but I'll look for my receipt.

The fuel lines run to the passenger side of the tank, and may not want to come off the metal lines from the sender because of corrosion. They have the same connectors as the fuel filter and fuel rail. The tank will still drop with them on, but be careful. If you can't get them off after you get the tank down, you'll have to finish the pump swap from under the car. Make sure the strainer points in the same direction and the original. If you break the retainers for the exhaust heat shield, they're a buck something at Autozone. You'll know which shield I'm talking about when you get under there. Remember to disconnect the wiring harness for the sender before you drop the tank. It'* right next the to the fuel line connections.

Any more questions?
Old 08-24-2004, 06:30 PM
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Thanks for the details. No, I don't have any questions, but if you think of anything else that you think is important to know, please post it.

Will I need any special tools?
How long might it take to perform the replacement?
What was the cost of the pump on GMPD, and do you know if the same one is used on both the '92 and '93 (and other year models too)?

Thanks again.
Old 08-24-2004, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by billha
Thanks for the details. No, I don't have any questions, but if you think of anything else that you think is important to know, please post it.

Will I need any special tools?
How long might it take to perform the replacement?
What was the cost of the pump on GMPD, and do you know if the same one is used on both the '92 and '93 (and other year models too)?

Thanks again.
No more questions? That looks like three more, to me.

I didn't need any special tools. Just sockets, screwdrivers, WD-40, hacksaw (to make hanger rods from bolts), large needlenose pliers (for fuel line connectors which I couldn't get undone), safe means of lifting rear end (I used ramps with blocks under them for safety), small mallet (for tapping screwdriver handle to move cam ring).

A few hours of time, maybe three with minor problems and learning curve.

ACDelco.com lists the fuel pump for 91-95 L67 and 92 L27 and GMPD lists $117.64 with shipping.
Old 08-26-2004, 07:55 PM
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My new fuel pump is much louder than my old one. I could barely hear the old. The new has an audible whir that can be heard almost all the time at idle and low car speeds. Do they quiet down after a while?
Old 08-26-2004, 10:13 PM
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I would hope not. That would mean decreased turbulence and surely decreased flow.
Old 08-27-2004, 09:58 PM
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I guess that'* good to hear.

Sidenote, my low fuel light came on at 213 miles. I wanna drop the tank again and "readjust" the fuel level arm. What a pain. Shoulda just left it.


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